Pince-Nez Renaissance

A Pince-Nez Case Fit for a Dandy

2012-01-14T09:28:00.000-08:00

LeDandy, your humble servant, had a rather unique gift request for his birthday: a sterling silver eyeglass case. After exhaustive research, which was a blast, I decided upon this case made in England circa 1909. The measurements seemed right and the case appeared to be in very good condition. A small ding on the back and some surface scratches but otherwise fine. Most antique silver eyeglass cases have a fair number of condition issues.

It is important to see the hallmark on silver. On this case, the hallmarks are both on the front and back of the case. I found a good reference on the web for researching hallmarks. According to the site, my case was made by Sampson Mordan.

I did not buy this case so it could sit in a cabinet. I am using it to store my pince-nez. My hoop springs fit inside perfectly.

This birthday gift combined my love for silver tchotchkies with my love for pince-nez. A match made in heaven! Thanks JD for the great gift.

An Alternative to Silicone Nose Pads?

2012-01-07T08:40:00.000-08:00

Yes, back in the day (circa 1902).....

Thank you Mr. Johnson for sending in this great vintage ad.

A Pince-Nez New Year"s Resolution

2011-12-30T17:10:00.000-08:00

We at the Renaissance believe that this has been a very productive year as evidenced by increased interest in pince-nez eyeglasses. Daily hits on this website have increased as have email questions. Readers' photos and "stories" have been wonderful. We hope more readers will contribute.

If you have a strong desire to wear a pince-nez and the means, but have not yet taken the first or even final step to obtain one, we urge you to make this a prime New Year's resolution. This may be a high point in your 2012 year!

Revisiting the Movies: Eyewear Review

2011-12-10T09:21:00.000-08:00

The 2007 film My Boy Jack is superb in every aspect, except its depiction of the period's eyewear.

I don't want to give away any of the plot details except about the total lack of historical accuracy regarding eyewear.

Young Jack (John Kipling) is seventeen years old in the film and he is played by Daniel Radcliffe. Jack is extremely myopic and desperately wants to enlist in the army. His famous father, Rudyard Kipling, suggests that he be fitted to a pince-nez before going to his army physical exam in 1914. The pince-nez is a rimmed flexible guard type complete with a long black ribbon. In typical movie style, this pince-nez is twenty-five years out of date and won't stay on the bridge of his nose for more than five seconds. Jack hates it. No wonder!

Jack fails the eye exam and thus the physical. Because of his dad's influence, Jack is able to join the Irish Guards and is immediately shipped off to join the fighting in France.

Jack ends up wearing silver rimmed spectacles with unsuitable straight arms (temples). Jack's specs fall off at every turn and he is blind without them. Surely he would have been properly fitted to a pair with cable temples which wrapped around the back of the ears. This would be necessary for combat situations.

Movie makers, despite often being historically accurate regarding costumes still fail miserably when it comes to eyewear!

[article submitted by Richard Johnson]

Price Range for Pince-Nez

2011-11-23T09:30:00.000-08:00

During the past three year we have received many emails recommending sellers of pince-nez. Sometimes we are shocked by the prices charged by many sellers for antique pince-nez mountings and frames. We believe that a reasonable price range for pince-nez, hoop springs or fingerpiece, is anywhere from $10 to $40 for base metal or gold-filled material in wearable condition. Gold mountings in 10k or 14k should be in the $60 to $125 range. This range is based on recent eBay sales.

As previously mentioned, you may have to try on several pince-nez to find one with the right fit. This is why we emphasize the buyer looks for a good return policy.

A Word on Glass Lenses

2011-11-19T04:37:00.000-08:00

We at the Renaissance continue to receive emails regarding glass lenses for pince-nez despite the fact that the subject has been covered extensively in previous posts. Modern glass lenses in the US, by Federal Law (circa 1974), must be made of tempered glass which is shatterproof. It can't be drilled for use in rimless pince-nez. Safety glass is also quite heavy and as far as we know, fairly thick. If we're wrong about this, please let us know (via comment section).

We received a thoughtful email from an optician in the UK who has invented a detailed, lengthy process for drilling safety glass lenses to make them suitable for rimless eyeglasses (pince-nez) and spectacles. While we appreciate his inventiveness, the thickness and weight of these lenses would tend to make the pince-nez both uncomfortable and unsteady on the bridge of the nose.

Bifocal Lenses

2011-10-15T12:01:00.000-07:00

[article contributed by Richard Johnson]

Bifocals were invented by Benjamin Franklin over 250 years ago. Franklin cleverly cut two pairs of lenses in half and placed the stronger reading segments in the bottom half of a small metal frame and the weaker segments on top. For the next 130 years bifocals were essentially the same until rimless eyeglasses (pince-nez) and spectacles became very popular. The fact that one needed only a small reading segment was long obvious to make bifocals less of an annoyance. The solution came in the cemented bifocal lens which was revolutionary at the time and worked well since lenses were the flat, thin, non-toric type. The reading segment was either a small circle or oval.

The invention of the toric or curved lens in the early 1900’s was followed by the invention of the Kryptock bifocal lens in which the two segments were fused together creating a far less visible appearance of two distinct lenses. The kryptock bifocal lens was much more expensive but gained steadily in popularity during the 1915 to 1930 period. The 1930’s to early 1950’s saw some variations in the shape of the reading segment… a flat top to the circular reading segment was created… this type eventually by the 1980’s became the most popular type of bifocal lens.

Interestingly a return to the Franklin type of bifocal lens became popular in the 1960’s it was called the executive bifocal lens. The big problem is that the successful use of bifocals means that the wearer must be able to almost make the reading segment disappear when not doing close work… the individual must be able to see around the reading segment…this can’t be done if the reading segment takes up the entire bottom half of the lens.

Often those who say they can’t wear bifocals have either not given them a chance or continue to fuss with two pairs of glasses…. It can take as long as two weeks of great frustration to get used to them but with patience the wearer discovers suddenly that he or she is unaware of the previous annoyance.

Just as many people have had problems with progressive lenses and despite trying them just can’t wear them.. period. This seems to be the case with most people who have worn traditional bifocals. Progressives are often three times the cost of traditional bifocal lenses.

Whichever type you choose be aware that there will remain times when they are frustrating.

For those of us who wear a pince-nez it’s extremely important that a hoopspring or oxford type pince-nez stays attached to the nose bridge in the same position each time it is clipped on: if the lenses droop or slope down, serious problems can arise. This isn’t a problem with the fingerpiece or astig clip pince-nez.

Progressive Lenses

2011-10-07T16:35:00.000-07:00

No, not as in Flo the Progressive spokesperson. She is mighty cute and LeDandy likes her. This post is about progressive lenses. Lenses with different levels of correction blended together for us older folks. The Wikipedia article referenced above is quite informative.

LeDandy recently had a set made for his fingerpiece. I was concerned that the lenses of my fingerpiece would be too small for progressives. The lenses are the traditional classic size (one and a half inches wide, one and three sixteenths of an inch tall) and I was not going to alter the size of my lenses for something as frivolous as vision.

There was a period of adjustment for about two weeks as my vision adjusted to the lenses. Progressive lenses were a wise choice for me.

Proper Pince-Nez Fit

2011-09-25T09:42:00.000-07:00

Depth of the Nose Bridge is as Important as the Width

[article submitted by Richard Johnson]

There have been a number of emails recently concerning proper pince-nez fit. The Renaissance has covered these issues previously in great detail.

Many of our readers have expressed concern about figures (i.e., measurements in mm) quoted on eBAY and elsewhere regarding bridge width. Alas, these numbers are generally useless and are quoted by those who lack real experience in fitting a pince-nez with success.

An important fact is often overlooked: nose bridge depth. The fact that an individual also needs some depth to the nose bridge for the pince-nez nose guard grips to attach on to it securely. Unfortunately, there are some individuals who may lack the amount of nose bridge flesh to be able to wear a pince-nez which will remain in place.

A Question of Size: Hoop Springs

2011-08-21T11:01:00.000-07:00

For those who are new to the old world of pince-nez, it is not a "one size fits all" situation which is found with modern eyewear. The question of determining size for proper fit has been covered in great depth in two prior posts [post 1, post 2]. Hoop springs, by nature of their design, are more forgiving in terms of size latitude for fit. Nevertheless, one must exercise discretion in choosing a hoop spring for wear. I have tried on many hoop springs that did not fit.

So how does one select the right size of hoop spring for wear? Since many purchases are made online, you cannot try them on before the purchase. This is why we emphasize that buyers check out the return policy of seller before committing to the sale. With hoop springs, I recommend looking at the distance between the nose guards and the design of the hoop spring itself. I recommend using simple classifications: small, medium and large. Forget about measurements in millimeters. The nose is a three dimensional object.

Below are some example of different sizes. With experience, you'll be able to easily classify a hoop spring from a photo.

Small

Medium

Large

It does look like there isn't much difference between the medium and large examples in terms of distance between nose guards. The real difference is in the style of the hoop spring itself. The c-clip spring is snugger than the flat spring shown in the large example. I speak from experience as the large example with nose pads was too big for me. The medium example is my current hoop spring. I wear them with nose pads.

Remember that you will almost certainly want to wear nose pads with your hoop springs for comfort and security. This decreases the distance between the nose guards and has a marked affect on fit. You will want to try on your pince-nez with nose pads to determine proper fit.

As I've said before, a visual approximation is just that. An estimate. You need to try them on with nose pads for fit.

A British Journalist and his Pince-Nez

2011-08-19T18:12:00.000-07:00

[The following text was submitted by Guy Fleming. He provided his email address for this story: guy.fleming7@tiscali.co.uk ]

My consciousness of pince-nez awoke at an early age, since this was the style of eyeglass favoured by my paternal grandfather, a favourite uncle and a delightful teacher who taught me how to add up and spell! Also, as an open Gay. I noticed that a significant number of fellow-Gays and lesbians chose to wore pince-nez (I`m going back 35 years or so) and, in a sense, I felt attracted to them because of that. Now, however, I wear `em because I like `em!

However, I had no desire to wear pince-nez until my 40s when it was relatively easy to get hold of the right finger-piece. I wore them alternatively with standard frames but, a few years later, decided to go full-time with them. I have never regretted that. This was because I had noticed, occasionally, not only middle-aged and elderly men wearing them, but also fashion-conscious ladies both here in the UK and in Belgium, where I worked for some time.

Finger-pieces were by then more difficult to obtain, but visiting independent opticians, who had been in the business a long time, paid off. Most of them still kept a wide range. In all that time, no- one had scorned my choice of eyewear – at least, not to my face. Rather I have received such compliments as” snazzy,” “they suit you,” and the inevitable “how do they stay on?” Interestingly, no one even commented on my pince-nez when I was on the reporting staff of two daily papers, where you would think they might. Otherwise, all that was said was complimentary.

Just recently, I needed a fresh prescription, and the national opticians` chain to which I went, smoothly carried this through without any murmurs about “this may be difficult,” and so on.

Incidentally, I have noticed, looking at old photographs of statesmen, etc, I see that only the great Franklin D. Roosevelt wore pince-nez, but so did his predecessor President Wilson, and HIS predecessor, Teddy Roosevelt! In the Second World War, they were worn by Canadian Premier, McKenzie King, Soviet Foreign Minister Molotov, Soviet KGB chief, Beria, and outstanding British Parliamentarian, Leo Amery, among many others I am sure. So we are in great (and not so great!) company!

[Editor's Note: Guy's large round lenses clearly work for him. Nevertheless, we advise novices to start with the classic small oval lenses for best results. Ear loops are an optional item and not necessary for wear. ]

LeDandy's New Fingerpiece

2011-08-07T16:38:00.000-07:00

LeDandy's new fingerpiece! This is my second fingerpiece and it is a beauty. As previously mentioned, it is new old stock and looks like it was made this year. Fortunately it has the craftsmanship of a previous era.

I used a local optician and they did a good job with them.

New Glasses for LeDandy

2011-07-30T10:10:00.000-07:00

Pince-nez, that is. I've been long overdue and I can tell that the time has come for a new prescription. After all, I am getting older .... and better.

Pictured above you can see the next candidate for lenses. It is a fingerpiece style pince-nez mounting given to me by Richard Johnson, my very good friend and colleague. This particular mounting is new old stock and in pristine condition. I'll be wearing silicone nose pads with them for added comfort and security.

The hard part with pince-nez, as you may have read, is finding an optician to make lenses and follow through with a fitting. I've found most opticians to be lazy and unmotivated even in this poor economy. The last optician I used for pince-nez has gone out of business. I picked out a new optician and will post her business if the lenses turn out as expected.

Adam's Story

2011-07-26T19:07:00.000-07:00

[in his own words]
I can no longer remember what first drew me to the pince-nez. Being from Chicago, I've always admired the former Presidents Roosevelt and what they did for America. I think it was from their Wikipedia articles that I had discovered the name of their particular style of glasses. Occasionally, I would get the idea in my head to try and find a mounting, but always with little to no luck – after all, they are no longer made.

The past few years I have been living in Scotland for school and am quickly approaching the beginning of my last year. I study veterinary medicine at the Royal Dick, which means our last year is spent in the hospital doing our rotations: a professional work environment. Suddenly, the need to wear a shirt and tie means overhauling my wardrobe, which then meant reexamining how I present myself. As a life-long wearer of spectacles, this seemed like the perfect time to take the plunge and really try to find a pince-nez mounting for myself.

Eventually I found the Renaissance, which ended up being a great resource. Both Alan and Richard were incredibly helpful when answering my questions – whether they were about lenses or styles. With time, I managed to track down a few mountings that roughly fit me. After getting my eyes examined, a company based in the US made my lenses for me... and then it seemed that everything went wrong.

My first mounting broke on me during adjustments, which was tragic considering its quality. Thankfully I had the second mounting, which lasted for about two weeks when one of the springs failed on me. Turns out that once a pince-nez mounting breaks in almost any fashion, it's irreparable. And all my waiting to see if someone could fix the mountings would end up being a waste of time. So then, it was back to eBay.

Through perseverance I eventually got my hands on a few more mountings. The current fingerpiece I have been using has been with me for about three months now with no issues. With luck and care, I hope it will last. Plus, it's great hearing all the compliments I receive.

Soldiers and Pince-Nez

2011-07-17T16:59:00.000-07:00

One of aims of Renaissance has always been to dispel the many myths concerning pince-nez: the biggest one being comfort and security.

Fascinating is the fact that the majority of soldiers during the 1880-1920 era who needed visual correction wore pince-nez eyeglasses. That it was the most popular and stylish eyewear made this a logical choice. Equally important is the fact that army officials recommended a pince-nez as the ideal choice because of the ease in wearing a gas mask over it. Spectacles proved to be less comfortable and rather cumbersome under masks or goggles.

Interesting too is the fact that military pilots particularly the German air aces were allowed to fly without perfect vision during the Great War (1914-1918) and most wore a rimless pince-nez without any "safety devices."

The fact that a pince-nez was so successful in both military and civilian circles was of course due to the great skill opticians had in fitting a pince-nez expertly to the individuals nose bridge. The end result was that the wearer had no concerns about stability because his pince-nez remained securely and very comfortably attached even during violent physical activity.

While the popularity of pince-nez for young people declined in the 1920's, particularly in the USA, it was not completely unusual for European soldiers and officers to wear a pince-nez (usually a rimless fingerpiece) even as late as World War 2 particularly in Russia and Germany!

[Note: top photo, young German officer, c. 1929; bottom photo, U.S. Army officer, c. 1917]

Pince-Nez for a Job Interview?

2011-07-09T10:30:00.001-07:00

It worked for me. I interviewed for my current job about six months ago and wore my pince-nez to every interview with them. At left is a photo from the day of one of the interviews. Did anyone notice them? Not until I discussed this eyewear as one of my hobbies.

On my other blog, LeDandy (of Northern California), I suggested in one post that readers consider bold attire for job interviews. However, I conceded that wearing pince-nez may be a bit too much even for me. Well, I broke my own rule.

The job market is horrible these days and it will probably get worse before it improves. Competition is unbelievable. You need to set yourself apart from the crowd and make a strong impression.

Will prospective employers object to this eyewear and draw unfavorable conclusions about you from it? Some will. Others won't. There are many factors to consider. The choice is up to you.

Oh yes, I broke another unwritten rule about neckwear for interviews. LeDandy wears only bow ties.

Hoop Springs in Sutter Creek

2011-06-28T15:44:00.000-07:00

LeDandy and family recently visited the historic old town of Sutter Creek in Amador County California. Last year we had a wonderful time in this old town with gold mining roots from the 1850s. Now there are many bed & breakfast inns, antique stores and wine tasting rooms.

LeDandy wore his hoop spring pince-nez. Did anyone notice? One sales clerk in an art gallery did ask me about them. Of course no one in the antique stores notices them.

LeDandy read The Teapot Dome Scandal by Laton McCartney on this trip. An excellent fun read.

Pince-Nez to Avoid Buying

2011-06-24T18:11:00.000-07:00

My Renaissance partner often gets carried away on a particular topic. Despite my view that this subject has been covered in the past sufficiently, I agreed to post the following.

Given the sellers on eBAY or antique dealers often know nothing about pince-nez, I believe that periodic reminders to our readers re: items to avoid purchasing are worth considering: after all why waste money on a pince-nez which is so defective that it can't be worn.

While at times one look at a photo "tells all"... this classic saddlebridge rimless fingerpiece has a broken spring. The other rimless mounting shown looks fine but it's a spectacle mounting not a pince-nez.

The attractive but cheaply made rimless hoopspring sunglass pince-nez has rivets rather than lens screws and re-lensing it is generally not possible. This type of non-prescription sunglass was the most popular of all in the 1895 to 1920 era. It came in various widths, lens colors, sizes and was sold for about 25 cents at most stores. The nose guard design was clever and easy to adjust making it both comfortable and secure.

The classic rimless hoopspring with the bent bridge can't be adjusted because it would immediately snap and break.

We hope that this post may prove useful. As always your comments are encouraged and most welcome.

Jacob's Pince-Nez

2011-06-18T19:55:00.000-07:00

I love it when we get emails and photos from our readers who have bought pince-nez and have lenses made for them. Those who have lenses made for their mountings have shown a commitment to wearing this style of eyewear. Jacob sent in these photos of himself, each showing a different pince-nez.

In the photo below, Jacob is wearing a shawl-collared tuxedo along with a flexible guard pince-nez. The frames appear a bright gold and there is a good reason for this coloring: he had the frames gold-plated by a jeweler! A local optician crafted the lenses.

Jacob also bought the fingerpiece style pince-nez as seen below. He had transition lenses made by Eyeglass Lens Direct in Sugarland, Texas. He had the lensmaker outline the the lenses from an old pair of templed glasses. Jacob was very pleased with their work and he recommends them for lenses. For added comfort and security, he added silicone nose pads from QTE.

Thank you Jacob for your photos and recommendations. I'm sure you'll be pleased with your purchases.

Buying on eBay

2011-05-06T20:08:00.000-07:00

The Pince-Nez Renaissance has stated many times that eBay is by far the best place to shop for a high quality antique pince-nez at a reasonable price. That prospective buyers have been warned repeatedly to use care and caution while shopping is just plain common sense.

While the majority of sellers know nothing about pince-nez, a sharp, detailed group of close-up photos can speak volumes as to condition of the pince-nez or any item. If the photo(s) is not detailed, or the condition of the object is lacking or sketchy, one should contact the seller via eBAY and ask questions. A good seller will respond in a timely manner to your concerns. If no response is received, your choice is simple: don't bid!

My ever vigilant Renaissance partner was surfing eBAY under the term a"antique eyeglasses" and noticed a group of what was described as a twenty plus set of new old stock (nos) glasses nose bridges. The tiny photo showed them in a fingerpiece trial set box.. There was no way to tell if the bridges were rimless eyeglasses (pince-nez) or spectacle bridges. Efforts to enlarge the photo didn't offer any clues. Mr. Johnson attempted to contact the seller via eBAY on the day item was listed for more details. There was no response. The item sold with one bid for $39.95. This would have been the bargain of the century if the mountings were rimless pince-nez. Again, caveat emptor! No answer to the prospective buyers means no bid. The sole bid was no doubt from a savvy optician who will sell the mountings for $100 each.

Hoop Spring or Fingerpiece?

2011-04-30T09:10:00.000-07:00

The advantages and disadvantages of both a fingerpiece and a hoop spring pince-nez have been previously noted in great detail on this site. Some of our readers who desire to wear a pince-nez and, after studying the Renaissance, are still having trouble making a choice.

Here is a simple solution based solely on the length of one's nose. If your nose is short, a classic saddle bridge fingerpiece will make the nose appear shorter. A classic C bridge hoop spring, with its high curved arch, will serve to make the nose appear longer. Conversely, if one thinks his/her nose is too long the saddle bridge fingerpiece pince-nez wil decrease the appearance of length.

Naturally, we at the Renaissance advocate that a serious full-time pince-nez wearer should get both the fingerpiece and a hoop spring, then alternate wearing each one!

The Zyl Hoop Spring: Rimmed or Rimless?

2011-04-08T07:17:00.000-07:00

Zyl rimmed fingerpiece and hoopspring pince-nez became very popular from about 1915 to the early 1920's. If you look closely at the photos you'll notice the "straps" and lens screws of a typical rimless pince-nez. If one were to purchase one of the same design and wanted to have it re-lensed, it would have to be fitted with rimless lenses because the zyl would crack and break due to age and dryness. Note also the closeup showing the screw holding the strap and bridge spring. Quality. The wonderful flat, thin sanitary type nose guards are easy to adjust and silicone nose pads can easily be applied for increased comfort and security. This is a great example of a fine quality pince-nez with an elegant yet minimalistic appearance guaranteed to enhance ones looks!

[LeDandy's note: My colleague provided this post. I would add that only an advanced user of pince-nez experiment with this style. ]

Adam's Pince-Nez

2011-04-02T07:02:00.000-07:00

Adam is an American veterinary student doing a year of study in Scotland. A full-time spectacles wearer, he has been interested in wearing a classic rimless fingerpiece pince-nez. Despite long delays he was finally able to obtain a pince-nez which was a perfect fit. He also had thin polycarb prescription lenses which were just the right size and shape. Unfortunately after a couple of weeks his pince-nez suffered a broken spring and they cannot be repaired.

Adam, while discouraged, is not about to give up on wearing a rimless fingerpiece pince-nez. He is obtaining a few mountings in fine condition and will have his lenses fitted to the best one. We will keep our readers posted on his progress and eventual success. Luckily opticians in Scotland are more willing to spend quality time and effort with their clients.

Kelley's Pince-Nez Story

2011-03-26T08:04:00.000-07:00

The Renaissance previously put up two posts on Kelley, a pince-nez enthusiast from Idaho. She has a blog of her own called "Our North Idaho Life" which is quite aptly named. Kelley's pince-nez evolution mirrors my own as she shows that one must be determined to pince-nez. The problem: finding the right optician. Newcomers to this eyewear believe the difficulty lies in the mounting. Wrong. It is finding a competent and motivated optician.

Kelley found the right optician in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho: Little Mo's Optical. She knew that she found the right place when she presented her pince-nez to the optician. The optician said "Oh, pinch nose. I have a pair that were my grandmothers." Kelley knew she was in the right place at that point.

The pince-nez shown are transition lenses with the classic size oval lens. It is a winning look and the Renaissance wishes Kelley much happiness with her new glasses.

Contemporary Pince-Nez Mountings?

2011-03-19T08:53:00.000-07:00

Several Renaissance readers have written to us as they are reluctant to obtain an antique pince-nez mounting, even "new old stock" or one in near mint condition. These readers insist on a mounting which has been recently made. As we have stated many times, these pince-nez do not work for full-time wear and are not worthy of re-lensing. The reason is simple: these manufacturers have not bothered to investigate the reasons how and why the classic pince-nez were so successful and popular. Clearly, many manufacturers haven't even looked at old photos. This modern pince-nez has nothing slightly resembling the quality nose guards of the past. The frames pictured below are an abomination from a pince-nez perspective.

If you recall, there was a Renaissance post showing a page from a Sears catalog dated 1908. The price of a pince-nez was $1.25. One may believe that these pince-nez were cheap items from the past given the current value of $1.25. Please keep in mind that back in 1908 a highly skilled workman would make about $5 a week. These glasses were not cheap items.

On Lens Shape: A Reader's Poem

2011-03-05T08:52:00.000-08:00

The Renaissance has some talented readers in its realm. We recently received a poem from Max, a reader in Russia. He contributed a wonderful short poem below on lenses for pince-nez.

It can be varied and even be square.
But if you're beginner we need be aware
That you've understood very simple inform
The best of pince-nez shape is just oval form.

Yes, oval lenses are universally the best choice. Stick with a proven winner. The Renaissance thanks Max for his thoughtful and well-crafted poem.

Profiles in Style

2011-02-26T07:38:00.000-08:00

My good friend Ted recently sent me a few pictures of himself at a conference in Washington, DC. Ted and I are true brothers when it comes to style as we both favor the bow tie and pince-nez. In fact, these items are our sartorial staples. The important fact is that both Ted and I feel very comfortable with our eyewear and necktie choices. In being comfortable, we can be our best when it comes to the substantive details of our engagements for which we are dressed.

What initially attracted me to pince-nez was how it looked on the face when viewed from the side. I can't describe the reasons behind my opinion but I find the look to be quite flattering. Below is a good profile picture of Ted. Very distinguished!

I really like the photo below. The camelhair jacket reminds me of my LaJolla businessman look in that both Ted and I stand out from the crowd in our respective pictures. That is why I kept the background in the image below. In a sea of navy and grey suits, Ted stands out in a proper and dignified manner.

My thanks to Ted and his friend Mike for submitting these pictures.

[cross-posted today on LeDandy (of Northern California)]

The Mark of LeDandy

2011-02-20T09:28:00.001-08:00

LeDandy received a very nice Valentine's Day gift from Jon Dean last week. A custom stamp featuring a pince-nez impression. The stamp itself is about two and a half inches across and it makes a nice image as seen below. The pince-nez shown is of the flexible guard style.

I decided to use the stamp for personal correspondence by placing my initials inside one lens. A distinctive touch! [penny is courtesy of Jon Dean]

More Pince-Nez Poetry

2011-02-12T08:56:00.001-08:00

Several weeks ago an anonymous reader submitted a poem to the Renaissance. Here is another poem from our reader. Thank you.

The Lovely Young Lady

With a pince-nez on her nose
Everywhere that she goes.

She may not start a trend
And knows well that in the end.

Her looks are enhanced
A few will be entranced

That her individualist ways
May pay off in future days.

The 1913 Hawkeye

2011-02-06T04:10:00.000-08:00

My colleague very kindly sent me this college yearbook from the University of Iowa dated 1913. Yes, that is almost one hundred years ago. Anyone appearing in this book has since passed on. Fortunately their images and stories remain with us. For pince-nez enthusiasts, this yearbook was published during the golden era of pince-nez which spanned from 1885 to 1919. Towards the end of this golden era, younger people moved more towards round tortoise shell spectacles.

When compared to the Colby Colby yearbook of 1904, one can see the popularity of the fingerpiece style as seen in the 1913 Hawkeye yearbook. Hoop springs were predominant until 1905, then the fingerpiece style took over.

Without further ado, LeDandy presents these wonderful images from a time long since past. Click on each image for a full screen view.

Below is the team photo for the women's basketball squad.

Even athletes wore pince-nez as seen in this close-up of the above page.

Here is a close-up from the above page showing a young man wearing the popular fingerpiece.

While the students preferred the fingerpiece, faculty and administration remained loyal to hoop springs. Below is John Bowman, President of the University of Iowa from 1911 through 1914. He was the first University of Iowa alumnus to become its president. He later went on to become the Chancellor of the University of Pittsburgh for roughly twenty years and he died in 1962. I'd like to think he wore his pince-nez until the end.

Vintage Pince-Nez Ads

2011-01-29T09:14:00.000-08:00

My colleague was kind enough to send me a fantastic book entitled "Advertising in the Retail Optical Business" printed in 1912 by the Page Publishing Company. It was a different world back then. No tv advertising and celebrities were not the main attraction in advertisements. The products actually had to stand on their own merits.

Shown below is sample ad copy from the book. The introduction to this section in the book reads as follows:

The advertisements in this collection are intended to serve as examples of what may conservatively be considered "profitable copy." Each advertisement is not necessarily complete as an announcement to be used continuously, but when used in a series with others printed in the collection, in line with a carefully laid out campaign, will surely bring the desired results under other equally favorable conditions.

Click on each image for a full screen display. You may have to double click for the largest image. These images are printed without permission of the publisher. The copyright has long since expired. Nevertheless, the Renaissance thanks the Page Publishing Company.

Another Rectangular Pince-Nez Wearer

2011-01-26T20:19:00.000-08:00

Yes, another enthusiast of the rectangular lens shape with pince-nez. The Renaissance recently received a photo and brief story from Mark. The following is Mark's statement.

"I am, in general, a fan of the esoteric, and of early 20th century design, and a glasses wearer since around 9. So getting set up with some nez pince was really just a matter of time. Add to that an upcoming wedding that, while not necessarily themed, had inclinations of that periods aesthetic, and I decided it was time."

The rectangular lenses can work for some people. However, the Renaissance strongly urges newcomers to pince-nez to get the classic oval lenses which are suitable for most facial types. Please see the table of contents for more information.

Thank you Mark for your story and photo.

Buffalo Bill's Pince-Nez

2011-01-25T07:41:00.000-08:00

Mary, a contributor to the Renaissance, sent in this photo that she took at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, Wyoming. Pictured above is a nice hoop spring pince-nez. The next step was to find a picture of Buffalo Bill wearing pince-nez. Mary did an extensive search and she couldn't find anything. Taking the initiative, she wrote to the center and asked if they have a photo of Mr. Cody wearing pince-nez. She is awaiting their response and will keep us informed.

Thank you Mary for the photo and story of historical interest.

Pince-Nez Poetry

2011-01-14T15:39:00.001-08:00

Yes, the Renaissance received a poem submitted by an anonymous reader. Thank you.

The Handsome Young Man

A pince-nez on his nose
Won't wear it as a pose

He is surely aware
At each approving stare.

That his eyewear is best
Because it passes the test

By staying in place
And gracing the face

Rectangular Lenses: Yes!

2011-01-08T09:00:00.000-08:00

The Renaissance was thrilled yesterday to receive an email with photos from a reader who wears pince-nez with rectangular lenses. Ok, they are not true rectangular lenses but in the shape of a trapezoid. This is an unconventional shape for pince-nez. However, as you can clearly see, it works wonderfully for Dan. The great aspect of pince-nez is that this eyewear allows you to express yourself in so many ways while retaining a minimalist approach. This eyewear, when worn properly, enhances one's appearance.

Dan's email to the Renaissance was quite eloquent so I'll let him speak for himself in regard to his pince-nez. The following text is his email to the Renaissance [reprinted with permission]:

My name is Dan and I have probably the only pince-nez in the world that don't have round lenses. I actually have two pair, one for clear lenses, and one for sunglasses, and they are prescription.

The gold frames that are on the sunglasses I found on Etsy, and the silver frames that on the regular glasses are actually the Morpheus glasses from the movie The Matrix. Though the frames were supposed to be the other way around, with the gold on the clear lenses and the silver with the sunglasses, I actually like the gold with the dark lenses. I went with the rectangular lenses so as to avoid everyone instantly thinking I was trying to be like Morpheus from The Matrix.

It took several weeks to actually find a place that would do the drill mounted lenses due to risk of breaking the lenses; which the place that did do it, did break two lenses during the build.

They are absolutely wonderful, and everyone I talk to does a double take when they see that there are no ear pieces. They are great, except when headbanging to heavy rock music, when the fell off and I accidently stepped on them, scratching one lens and flattening the nose piece. I was at a Renaissance Faire in Fresno, CA (after hours party), and in the morning was able to find a jeweler and reshaped the nose piece, and survived the next few days with a horribly scratched lens, but was able to get it replaced.

This is my story of my pince-nez, and I love them.
--Dan

Thank you Dan for the great story. Readers should consider the use of silicone nose pads for superior comfort and security with their mountings. As a final note, we suggest that first-time pince-nez wearers use the classic oval lens shape and size.

Modern Pince-Nez Lenses: Wipe or Wash?

2011-01-01T09:36:00.001-08:00

If you wear a pince-nez with moden prescription lenses you have discovered the many benefits of polycarb, hi-index or other plastic material. The one negative aspect is that it is quite easy to scratch them. Use care when cleaning your lenses. My colleague has related from long experience that he never wipes his pince-nez but always runs warm water on both sides of it before applying mild liquid dishwashing soap to clean the lenses. This can can be combined with Windex and a gentle rubbing followed by a thorough rinsing. Dry the lenses and mounting/frame with either a soft, clean all-cotton cloth or special lens cloth (given out by opticians with eyeglasses). Wiping your pince-nez with a tissue or paper towel when it is dry can easily scratch the lenses if there is any grit on them.

If you have to rub your eye(s), it is a good idea to remove your pince-nez first. My colleague mentioned the "mystery" of a scratched lens was uncovered when he realized a fingernail caused the damage when he rubbed his eye while wearing pince-nez.

Using care when washing your pince-nez will prolong the life of your lenses and your beautiful pince-nez will sparkle!

Another Source for Silicone Nose Pads

2010-12-23T06:46:00.000-08:00

Now here is a cheap stocking stuff for Christmas. Well, it might actually get lost in the stocking since it is so small. Thanks to Reader Kurt, we now have another source for silicone, boot-style nose pads. Kurt found these nose pads priced at $4 a pair at Nose Pad King online. Neither Kurt nor I have used them, but you may want to check them out.

Doing It Right: Mary and Her Pince-Nez

2010-12-21T06:09:00.000-08:00

Last week I received a great email from Mary who is new to the world of pince-nez. Shown above she is modeling her rimless fingerpiece which she just loves. And she should as it looks wonderful on her! She also had another fingerpiece mounted with prescription sunglass lenses.

Mary is a role model for those who want to get started with pince-nez. From her story, I want to point out the steps she took in getting her glasses.

Mary went on eBay and purchased a number of pince-nez mountings. She bought five hoop springs and four fingerpiece mountings. This variety helps immensely in determining the proper size and preference in style.
She bought an assortment of silicone nose pads and tried on the pince-nez with the pads. These pads are essential for comfort and security.
She had her optician copy the dimensions of the original pince-nez lenses for her regular glasses above. Most opticians incorrectly steer customers towards lenses which are too large for pince-nez. Mary stuck to the classic dimensions above. For sunglasses below, she opted for larger lenses.

So what stimulated Mary's interest in pince-nez? She ran across this eyewear during her study of clothing worn during the Civil War era.

Welcome to the world of pince-nez and congratulations on taking the proper steps.

Installment IV: "The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses"

2010-12-17T17:33:00.000-08:00

This is our fourth and final installment in "The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses" series. Please remember that these installments are for historical purposes only. Depending on your browser, you may have to reload the screen. We have highlighted definitions or terms in yellow and added comments in red.

Today's installment covers loose screws and mounting rimless lenses. Click [here] for the fourth installment.

Pince-Nez Terminology Trivia

2010-12-13T13:29:00.000-08:00

Some Renaissance readers may be a bit obsessive about using correct terms like my colleague, the oft quoted Mr. Johnson. While much of the following has been covered in previous posts, you will find this summary interesting and informative.

Pince-nez, pronounced pahns-nay, is French and literally means pinch-nose. The term is singular although the plural is the same.
The wording "pair of pince-nez" is wrong as pince-nez is singular.
Pince-nez should never be called spectacles. Eyeglasses is the proper term. From the 1860's to the early 1930's, eyeglasses and spectacles had distinct meanings. Eyeglasses were pince-nez and spectacles had temples or arms.
Eyewear was unisex until the late 1930's.
Pince-nez nose pads are properly called nose guards or nose guard grips. Nose pads on this site refer to silicone "boot style" pads which can be applied over the nose guards for a more comfortable and secure fit of the pince-nez to the wearer's nose bridge.
Pince-nez mounting vs. pince-nez frame. If a pince-nez is rimless, it is a mounting. If a pince-nez has rims for lenses, it is a frame.

We hope that the above may be of some interest to you and that it clears up some terminology confusion.

Again, it is most important to search the "Annotated Table of Contents" on the left side of this site. Keep the comments coming!

A Note to Readers

2010-12-04T08:10:00.000-08:00

My colleague and I agree on most things concerning pince-nez. However, we will disagree on rare occasion. He has been hounding me endlessly to post the following which in my opinion is repetitive. We all know that to get an individual off your back, it's easier at times just to comply. It is a proven method which works equally well with both terrorists and children.

Without further ado, I present the following text;

"We at the Pince-Nez Renaissance appreciate your email questions and want to help you as much as possible. It would help greatly if you describe the type of pince-nez you wear or would like to wear. Is it rimless or rimmed? Is it ia fingerpiece, hoop spring, Oxford or Astig? Naturally, a photo, as the old saying goes, is "worth a thousand words." Please remember, our purpose is to help you.

If you are confused by the terminology, please read the sections listed in our annotated table of contents."

Pince-Nez Sightings: "Colonel Redl"

2010-11-21T21:45:00.000-08:00

This Hungarian movie made in 1985 was remarkable. It is based on the actual story of the Austrian intelligence chief prior to, and during World War I. Colonel Alfred Redl was played by Klaus Maria Brandauer. He started out as a devoted follower of the monarchy and attended a military academy. Sadly, he ended up a traitor as he was blackmailed by the Russians for being gay. It is a very moving work and I highly recommend seeing it.

This movie had its share of pince-nez wearers. Below are two stills taken from the movie. I don't find these styles particularly attractive but they add a great deal of character to the movie.

My favorite character in the movie was the sinister Archduke, played brilliantly by Armin Mueller-Stahl.

A Pince-Nez Sphinx?

2010-11-13T15:47:00.001-08:00

I admit, this blog has more than its share of FDR references. But then his hoop springs in old photos and newsreels started my own personal pince-nez path. He was one hell of a president and far superior to anything we've had since his last term in 1944.

The pince-nez sphinx is definitely one of the more interesting items in the FDR Library. It is a seven feet tall papier-mache sculpture that was presented to FDR at the 1939 Gridiron Dinner in Washington.

What is the meaning of the sphinx? In 1939 FDR had already served two terms as president. There was much speculation as to whether or not he would seek a third term. FDR kept his plans to himself, not announcing his intentions for some time.

Installment III: "The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses"

2010-11-06T07:30:00.000-07:00

Today we present the third installment from Pettet's classic book "The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses." This installment focuses upon adjustments to mountings. Please remember that these installments are for historical purposes only. With the use of silicone nose pads, one does not need to have the precise fit as required when this book was written.

My colleague and I differ in opinion when it comes to making adjustments to the mounting. As someone with limited craftsmanship abilities, I leave mounting adjustments to my optician. My colleague is more adept with tinkering so he feels comfortable making his own adjustments. You'll have to determine which path you want to take.

Without further ado, I present the third installment from this great book. Click -here-. Depending on your browser, you may have to reload the screen. We have highlighted definitions or terms in yellow and added comments in red.

Installment II: "The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses"

2010-10-30T07:10:00.000-07:00

Two weeks ago I posted the first installment from "The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses" by Robert Pettet (1913). Today is the second installment from this wonderful book.

Depending on your browser, you may have to reload the screen. We have highlighted definitions or terms in yellow and added comments in red. [click above] Please remember that these excerpts are for historical purposes only. Advances in eyewear (e.g., polycarbonate lenses, silicone nose pads) have made some information obsolete.

Revisiting the Old School Yearbook

2010-10-23T10:47:00.000-07:00

Not LeDandy's yearbooks. Hell, I threw out my old high school yearbooks just after I graduated. I never regretted doing that as high school was the worst experience of my life. It was a prison for me. College? Arizona State University had about forty thousand students when I attended, which made yearbooks meaningless.

Earlier in the week I received some wonderful books from my colleague on the Pince-Nez Renaissance. Included in the shipment was a yearbook for Colby College in Waterville, Maine. The year.........1904! This was a golden era for pince-nez eyewear so this initially stimulated my interest. Then I started examining the book page by page. This yearbook was fascinating and I couldn't put it down.

Below is a photo of the Delta Kappa Epsilon fraternity. A far cry from the "Animal House" style fraternities of today.

On to the pince-nez photos. Below is a photo of a young man wearing the hoop spring style popular in this time period. Note the ear chain for his eyeglasses. Back in this time lenses were made of glass. One fall and the lens would probably shatter, hence the security device. Also note that the other fellow in the photo is wearing a tuxedo with peak lapels. Many of the students wore tuxedos for their yearbook photo. The narratives for student photos are quite interesting.

The young man below wearing hoop springs also appears in the fraternity photo.

Women also wore pince-nez at this time. Note the beautiful hoop spring on the young woman below.

At the back of the yearbook I found local ads for businesses of the time. Naturally a shoe ad caught my interest.

Before you get excited about the price of shoes from 1904, you need to remember that wages were drastically lower than those of today. A skilled factory worker earned about eight dollars a week. A nice pair of shoes cost about half of his net pay. In relative terms, shoes are cheaper today though the quality is much inferior.
________________
Note: this article is also posted on LeDandy (of Northern California)

Kelley's New (Old Stock) Pince-Nez

2010-10-20T05:16:00.000-07:00

Last month the Renaissance put up a post featuring Kelley wearing a fingerpiece. She recently had prescription lenses made for this beautiful mounting. The process of having lenses made for pince-nez can be quite trying, hence the number of warnings we give the reader when embarking on this eyewear. Kelley had her tribulations in this process but in the end it was well worth the effort.

What were some of the difficulties? As I've experienced, many opticians are reluctant or downright refuse to work on pince-nez. Kelley's optician sent her to a local jeweler to remove the old lenses from the mounting and install the new ones. Also, her new lenses appeared slightly larger than the original pair. The optical store said they threw out her old lenses when she wanted to compare the lenses

Finding a good optician is one of the toughest obstacles for the pince-nez enthusiast. Many stores will not work on them for reasons previously stated in other posts. The Renaissance will gladly advertise optical stores that are "pince-nez friendly." A few stores have taken advantage of this offer. Conversely, speak up if a store didn't treat you properly. In those cases, you may want to post a review on Yelp or another online review site. You may help others avoid an unworthy business.

Kelley's pince-nez adventure ended well. Or should I say, just started. With Kelley is her beautiful dog Tundra.

The Pince-Nez Classroom, Installment I: "The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses"

2010-10-16T08:54:00.000-07:00

Today is the first installment of the Renaissance's virtual classroom. As mentioned in our last post, the Renaissance will post selections from our library of eyewear books. Each installment will be only a few pages and will contain annotations of what we feel is noteworthy.

You must have the current version of Adobe Reader to view the installments. Adobe Reader is free and can be downloaded from their website.

Without further ado, the Renaissance presents the first installment from "The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses," by Robert Pettet (1913). Depending on your browser, you may have to reload the screen. We have highlighted definitions or terms in yellow and added comments in red. Please remember that these excerpts are for historical purposes only. Advances in eyewear (e.g., polycarbonate lenses, silicone nose pads) have made some information obsolete.

Book Reviews!

2010-10-14T09:04:00.000-07:00

A book review on pince-nez? Yes, LeDandy recently received two wonderful books on pince-nez from his colleague. The first book we will discuss is The Mechanics of Fitting Glasses by Robert Pettet (1913). It is an excellent book for the layman and covers the complete spectrum of topics related to this style of eyewear.

LeDandy will present certain chapters in upcoming posts which he believes will be helpful for the pince-nez enthusiast. Lets be realistic, a book on eyewear is not like reading an exciting novel. The material in this book, and others, will be presented in digestible portions.

Is it necessary to understand these books to wear pince-nez? Apparently not as LeDandy has worn pince-nez for the last two years on a full-time basis. However, these books are important as they are the only sources for knowledge held by experts in this eyewear. The true experts trained in pince-nez are no longer with us as this style faded from mainstream use in the 1940s.

Please keep in mind that a huge evolutionary step happened after this book. Silicone nose pads. With this wonderful accessory, one can wear pince-nez with much greater comfort and security. Also, there is much more allowance for fit with nose pads.

Below are some scans from the book. Future presentations will be in Adobe pdf format.

LeDandy Meets Lisa Birnbach

2010-09-20T19:56:00.000-07:00

Lisa Birnbach, as in the author of The Official Preppy Handbook and her latest work, True Prep. LeDandy, your obedient servant, met her at a book signing in San Francisco today. We exchanged autographs. She signed a copy of True Prep, and LeDandy signed a charge slip. As you you can see in this photo, LeDandy wore his fingerpiece for the occasion.

What relationship exists between pince-nez and the world of prep? All I can tell you is that Ms. Birnbach was extremely charming and I look forward to reading her book.

The Renaissance Welcomes Kelley to Pince-Nez

2010-09-19T07:00:00.000-07:00

Kelley from the state of Washington sent the Renaissance an email last week discussing her start with pince-nez. It is a very interesting read. Below is the text of her email:

**********************************

"I want to thank you for your blog about pince-nez. What a treasure trove of information.

I recently found out that I needed glasses and the choices of eyewear were a bit overwhelming. I went to different eyewear stores and did searches online. I couldn't even begin to choose a frame that suited me. I started thinking maybe antique eyewear would be more suitable. So I started doing internet searches. That is how I found your Pince-Nez Renaissance and knew I had found the type of eyewear I wanted. The information on your blog was very helpful.

My next thought was where on earth am I going to find a pair and would they work for me. I was so fortunate in that. My first stop was an online auction website. I typed in pince-nez and was surprised by all the auctions that popped up. Long story short. I won, with an uncontested bid, a lot of womens pince-nez that consisted of four pair of fingerpiece and one pair of hoop. Two pair of the fingerpiece were even more surprising. They fit my bridge and were my prescription. The pair I am wearing in the attached photo I had checked at my eyeclinic and they verified my belief. I am having one of the other fingerpiece fitted with my prescription but in polycarbonate lenses for more durablility.

I am more than pleased with my pince-nez for their minimal feel and look on my face to their classic uniqueness. I love that they are truly jewelry for my nose and the chained hair pin is so much fun. Your blog is very helpful and is a Godsend."

****************************************
Kelley is off to a great start. Our thanks to Kelley for sharing her story with us.

Which Type of Pince-Nez is Best for Me?

2010-08-21T08:12:00.000-07:00

This is a question sometimes posed by those emailing the Renaissance and it is a valid one.

The authors of this blog full-time, pince-nez wearers and are devoted to the rimless style. While this style suits almost everyone, others may not like the minimalist appearance and may want a mounting which is more conspicuous.

Any pince-nez makes a bold statement showing everyone that your eyeglasses mark you as rugged individualist who follows his/her own path. If you choose to wear a pince-nez, whether it befingerpiece, hoop spring, astig clip, oxford or any other type: rimless or rimmed ---- great! As long as it is comfortable and remains securely attached to the bridge of the nose, you'll be fine.

Curly in Pince-Nez

2010-08-15T09:13:00.000-07:00

LeDandy loves starting the weekend mornings with a Three Stooges video or two. This morning I watched the classic clip All the World's a Stooge (1941). In this short, the boys are mistaken for refugee children by a rich a couple. Preposterous? Absolutely. But that is the beauty of the Stooges.

In the beginning of the short, Curly pulls a tooth while he is playing a dentist. To do the dental work, Curly puts on his pince-nez with ribbon cord. Please note that Curly is not wearing his pince-nez properly as it shouldn't be so far down on his nose.

LeDandy and Cat

2010-08-11T18:58:00.001-07:00

LeDandy hasn't forgotten about this blog. He's been quite busy with his main blog, LeDandy (of Northern California). Today I experimented with the self-timer on my camera and came up with this unusual lighting, highlighting my pince-nez.

Increased Interest in Pince-Nez

2010-07-03T07:55:00.000-07:00

The Renaissance is very pleased to report a large increase in both the amount of "readers" and emails received in the past several weeks. We were thrilled to receive Karl's great story and striking photos. His classic, rimless fingerpiece pince-nez certainly enhances his looks!

There have been several other emails reporting similar success stories by those who have acquired a pince-nez. They have expressed great enthusiasm regarding comfort and fit. We appreciate their willingness to share their stories and photos, which are often posted on this blog. We urge others to do likewise. The Renaissance exists to help you. We feel that we are doing our job successfully when we receive such glowing praise from readers.

Karl's Pince-Nez Story

2010-07-01T08:20:00.000-07:00

The Renaissance recently received a great story and some photos from Karl in New York. He is new to the world of pince-nez and his story is most encouraging. It speaks for itself so I'll give you the pertinent portion of his email:

"I would like to begin by thanking you for your fantastic resource. If it wasn't for Pince-Nez Renaissance, I would never have been able to obtain all the information necessary to have my own pince-nez, a dream based heavily on my two heroes from the past, Teddy Roosevelt and G.K. Chesterton. It certainly was a long journey, but one well worth it.

I know you have often mentioned the problems with purchasing off eBay, but I just couldn't resist bidding on what appeared to be a lot containing two fingerpiece pince-nez in perfect condition (along with 4 other random spectacles in poor condition from the 1940s -50s). At the time the auction was set to end, I was on line for a roller coaster at an amusement park, I borrowed a family member's Blackberry and managed to snipe the auction last minute. I got the whole lot for under $30 with shipping. After receiving the package I immediately tried on one of the pince-nez, they were a perfect fit. I couldn't believe my luck.

Then of course came the tricky part, finding an optician who would make new lenses. At the first place I visited the receptionist looked at me as though I was crazy, and proceeded to call the optician into the room. He looked at the pince-nez and immediately said "No, I won't do that" and walked away without another word. I was discouraged, but kept on trying.

I was given polite turn downs at several other outfits before I was finally greeted with "I collect antique eyeglasses as well, I'll do anything to help." The entire office knew me by name after a week of phone calls about the best way to get the project done (I needed a special index lens, which would have otherwise have been too thick). [Sacco Eye Group] So, after one failed attempt with scratched lens, and about 4 weeks of work, I finally managed to get my pince-nez on my face and out the door."

Karl has been wearing his pince-nez for over eight months. I am very impressed with his determination in finding an optician. Unfortunately, many opticians refuse to work with pince-nez, as Karl found out. Then again, there are the uncommon ones who welcome the challenge of working with this eyewear.

Also, I am intrigued by his motivation for wearing pince-nez. Teddy Roosevelt is one of the best known wearers of the hoop spring style, but G.K. Chesterton made me do a little research. His photo is below. Regardless of your role models, this eyewear flatters most faces and is quite practical.

Pince-Nez in Paris

2010-05-18T08:48:00.001-07:00

You may not see pince-nez worn by people on every street corner in Paris, but this eyewear style appears to be better received in France than in the US. LeDandy recently received a thoughtful letter from a pince-nez enthusiast in Paris. According to his account, many opticians in Paris are capable and motivated to work with pince-nez mountings. This is in sharp contrast to my personal experiences and those of my colleague.

Our Paris reader wears pince-nez, and like myself, can't imagine wearing any other eyeglass style.

A Fresh Look at the Astig

2010-05-02T08:14:00.000-07:00

Courtesy of Ed in Los Angeles. LeDandy has shown a strong bias in this blog towards hoop springs and fingerpieces styles of pince-nez. Thanks to Ed, I'm taken a new look at the Astig as a pince-nez suitable for everyday wear. He was kind enough to write an email to the Renaissance discussing his experience.

The following is taken from his email. A very interesting read!

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"My decision to purchase astigs was the result of a lot of discernment. My high astigmatic Rx (cylinder over 7 diopters in both eyes) disqualified some styles (flexible guards, hoop springs), which didn't bother me too much. And I was quite taken with the modern minimalism of rimless fingerpieces , but after a lot of thought, decided against them for a few reasons:

I didn't want to have to buy many pairs before finding a few that would provide a suitable fit;
I didn't want to deal with the hassle of finding an optician willing to make adjustments. Certainly the fingerpiece itself would need adjusting - the bridge of my nose was broken at an early age in an accident and didn't heal correctly, and eyeglasses have consequently had a pronounced tilt on me for years, even with considerable wrangling by opticians. If opticians were always bothered to make my regular frames fit, I can only imagine their reticence at dealing with something like a pince nez;
The high diopter of the cylinder in the Rx means the profile of the lenses will be greatly visible, even with high-index lenses, and this ruins the minimalism. I could have opted for polished edges, giving them an ice-blocky "Sarah Palin"-ish look, which does have some appeal. But edge-polishing already creates semi-circular reflections in the the lower part of the field of vision. At my Rx, these are significant enough to impair vision. I know this from experience, having run into the problem before with modern semi-rimless frames.

So I settled on astigs. After much eBay lurking, I won/purchased an experimental pair ($30 shipped from the UK), and rather liked how they looked on me, so I went with them. True to their intent, wearing astigs with an astigmatic prescription has worked quite well!! Certainly, these will see alternation with my current pair of Windsors; but it's nice to have variety.

They're secure enough in fit with the QTE pads not to require the safety chain they came with (which is great as a curiosity but looks a bit strange on me in real life), but will mostly likely see their greatest use in the office or on the bus in less itinerant circumstances. And the muted 10k gold tone? Blends in nicely with my skin-tone, so friends/family didn't know I was wearing glasses until they got closer."

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Ed makes an eloquent case for the Astig and supports it with a very flattering picture. Yes, you should consider the Astig among possible choices if you are thinking about pince-nez. They are especially well-suited for strong prescriptions and they are much more forgiving in obtaining a proper fit. This style is an important member of the pince-nez family.

Should You Wear Pince-Nez?

2010-04-09T12:43:00.000-07:00

Probably not.

This is a shocking statement to make on the Renaissance. However, I do feel obligated to advise readers that pince-nez eyewear presents many challenges. Anyone casually interested in this style for full-time use can easily be discouraged and he/she most likely will not succeed. You must have a very strong desire to wear pince-nez. If you do have that passion, then I suggest you proceed knowing some of the possible barriers in your path. I considered giving up at one point as my first mounting proved an improper fit.

The distinguished eyewear style is definitely worth the effort if you are truly devoted.

What are the potential obstacles facing someone interested in wearing pince-nez? The primary challenges involve time, money and public image. A newcomer to pince-nez should consider the following:

1. The proper mounting - Antique pince-nez are abundant in the marketplace at a very reasonable cost and most are perfectly functional. The problem lies in finding a mounting of the correct size for your nose. If one buys off of eBay, there is no guarantee of fit. A proper size can be hard to find and you will likely acquire many pince-nez which do not fit. Prices vary from $25 and up on eBay to several hundred dollars from an boutique optical store.

I have a nose bridge of average width and I'm lucky if one-fifth of the mountings I've tried on actually fit me.

2. Prescription lenses for your mounting - Many opticians are reluctant to work on pince-nez. Of those who will make lenses, not all of them will work with you after the sale. It is very important to find an optician who will make adjustments to your eyeglasses once the lenses are made, as is done with ordinary spectacles. Expect to pay at least $200+ for lenses, and more if you have a complex prescription.

I used a boutique optical store for my first pince-nez and they did not work with me on adjustments after the sale. I learned a valuable lesson.

3. Fear of negative public perception - "People will think I am odd or strange for wearing these glasses." I'm sure this thought occurs to anyone considering pince-nez for daily wear. Unfortunately the answer is sometimes yes. Some people will consider you eccentric or odd for wearing this eyewear style. However this is the situation with anyone who is "fashion forward" and pursues his/her own look. The bold and innovative people have their share of critics as well as admirers.

I am lucky in that the Bay Area tolerates a diversity of dress. Pince-nez is quite mild in terms of variation for this region. If you live in a less diversified setting and/or hold a job where you have a public image, then you should carefully consider the possible impact of wearing pince-nez on a full-time basis.

I've received many compliments and positive comments regarding my own wear of pince-nez. On the other hand, I realize there are others who view these eyeglasses as odd. These people will almost certainly not voice their opinions to you.

If you are willing to make a commitment to pince-nez, then I urge you to proceed.

Who Wore Pince-Nez?

2010-04-06T18:12:00.000-07:00

Historically speaking, it was the upper strata of society who wore pince-nez during the heyday of this eyewear in the early twentieth century. There are many photos of politicians, leaders of finance, artists and intellectuals wearing pince-nez to remind us of this time. Theodore and Franklin Roosevelt come to mind. FDR's cabinet seemed to favor pince-nez as well, as discussed in a prior post. College students at Ivy League schools also had a fondness for these glasses. A survey of the 1911 Brown University yearbook revealed that of those who wore glasses, about seventy percent chose pince-nez.

This post looks at two questions.

1. Why was pince-nez the preferred style of eyewear in the early twentieth century?

The answer can be found easily in the advertising of the era. At left is an ad which summarizes the essence of pince-nez's appeal. "The most inconspicuous glasses you can wear, " the ad proclaims. Eyewear at this point in history was not seen as a fashion item but as a medical necessity that detracted from one's appearance. Hence the minimalism of pince-nez was truly appreciated.

2. What barriers prevented all social classes from wearing pince-nez?

The obvious and correct answer was cost. Unlike templed eyewear, pince-nez required a precise fit with the proper sized mounting by a specially trained optician. Templed glasses have always been much more forgiving in terms of fit and do not require the expertise of an optician possessing a special set of skills. Also, pince-nez mountings had a variety of sizes in each model to fit different facial dimensions whereas spectacles did not have this burdensome requirement.* The economics of eyewear clearly favored templed glasses.

Pince-nez was simply too expensive for opticians to administer. Naturally these costs were passed along to the consumer. Only the well-to-do could afford the expense of being fitted with pince-nez.

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*See post on fitting sets.

Pince-Nez in Chicago

2010-03-31T18:25:00.000-07:00

The Renaissance recently received an email from Labrabbit Optics in Chicago. As you may recall, we wrote a post on this store back in June of 2009. According to the owner, they now have a dozen or so pince-nez in stock. If you are in the Chicago area, it would be a good idea to check them out.

If You Don’t See It, Ask For It!

2010-03-28T08:23:00.000-07:00

Several Renaissance emails in recent months from readers have talked about the unavailability of pince-nez eyeglasses at any opticians. This situation is to be expected as the last real mountings were made sometime in the 1930s. As we've mentioned here, your best bet is to buy the mounting online or from an antique store, and then have an optician make prescription lenses.

A reader of the Renaissance recently informed us that an optician in New York still has a few pince-nez mountings available! This situation is quite rare and typically happens only with a store that has been in the same location for a century or more.

In the reader's case, the optician said they had no pince-nez in stock and that they were no longer made. Our reader was quite resourceful and had the courage to ask the optician to check their “old” stock. This material is often hidden away in the basement or in a seldom used cabinet containing “bits and pieces.” Quite often a few rimless fingerpiece or hoop spring mountings may be mixed in with assorted rimless spectacle bridges, etc. In some cases rimmed pince-nez may turn up too.

My colleague in the past has lucked out in the past in this regard and has obtained rimless pince-nez mountings for short money just by asking them to look. If the optician has occupied the same premises for decades you are more apt to be lucky. Very often, if they have moved in recent years, much of the long neglected, long forgotten “new” old stock has vanished.

If the optician seems even the least bit interested in your request, suggest that he/she take a serious and detailed look at Pince-Nez Renaissance. We are pleased to assist readers and businesses who are interested in the practical use of pince-nez.

It doesn’t cost anything to ask and your reward may be priceless, as in one reader's case.

Vintage Portrait Photographs and Pince-Nez

2010-03-16T19:51:00.000-07:00

There's nothing more effective in demonstrating the true beauty of pince-nez eyeglasses than vintage portrait photographs of attractive people wearing them. You will find more than 150 of these photos on Flickr.com. Search under pince-nez and you will be amply rewarded. You may learn some interesting history as there is much factual information under the photo descriptions.

LeDandy highly recommends checking out his colleague's Flickr site for an amazing collection of vintage pince-nez photos. While I look ahead, there is a great deal of inspiration from these photos.

Letter from a Reader

2010-02-27T08:48:00.000-08:00

Last week I received a great letter from Thomas, a pince-nez enthusiast in South Africa. It is a very thoughtful letter and he has some interesting points.

"I have had the pleasure of wearing glasses from the tender age of 4, back when some frames were still made from what felt like cast iron. Having lived my whole life with glasses, contact lenses have always made me feel naked and vulnerable to some extent. I still remember the first time wearing them, feeling like I was walking around in my underwear!!

At any rate, I have been thinking about trying pince nez for a long time - but I had no idea as to where to start looking or even if they would be comfortable to wear. Once the desire to try them was intense enough, I threw myself on the net and found copious pairs of them, but again, I still had no idea what these glasses were about, how comfortable they were, and if you could even wear them as replacements to regular glasses. (let alone what the width of my bridge was or how to attempt to measure it!?)

And then I came across your site, a true treasure chest of information. With so much dubious and really bad sales info out there, it is truly a discovery to come across a page like yours: devoted to offering real information free, on top of which offering advice and personal experience. WOW! There is so much on your blog about all aspects of pince nez, you really helped me to find my way around, evaluate the pairs I found, and most of all, helping me to realize that I had to try them on and not just order them off the net (I live in South Africa, so return policies would have killed my pocket!).

After searching all local antiques stores, I found a perfectly fitting pair (fixed bridge). Then I had glasses made, and embarked on the adventure of using them. They were good, but still not perfect - the metal would slip of my nose when I was sweating, and living in South Africa, this is not a small problem. Again, you came with the solution: silicone boots!

Walking around with pince nez it seems optometrists are only to happy to help you out, and I found a pair of booties free of charge at a local store, and wow, they now stick to my face like glue. I forget I am wearing glasses nowadays, and that is truly amazing.

--On a side note: with silicone booties, the fixed bridge should be a little wider if possible, as the silicone adds about 1mm thickness to the frames---luckily my pair fits perfectly with the booties as well.

I am now thinking of changing the glasses to photo-cromatic lenses, as the frame is so comfortable and invisible, I do not want to carry around more glasses anymore. More than that, any other pair of glasses feels heavy and clunky compared to the comfort of pince nez!"

There are a few points I'd like to discuss. First, I am pleasantly surprised to read that many South African opticians are interested in assisting pince-nez wearers. This comment by Thomas is in sharp contrast to my experiences, as well as most other pince-nez wearers here in the US, who have not had positive interactions with opticians regarding pince-nez. Secondly, Thomas points out that he wears silicone nose pads for added comfort and security. The nose pads are especially helpful in South Africa's humid climate. As Thomas notes, the nose guards of the mounting should be a little wider to accommodate the width of the nose pads.

A very inspiring letter. The Renaissance is grateful for Thomas's letter and we wish him the best of luck with his eyewear.

A Note to Our Readers

2010-02-01T12:40:00.000-08:00

The Pince-Nez Renaissance is a unique resource and the only site devoted to modern day wear of pince-nez eyeglasses.

A great deal of work and resources have gone into the construction of this site to make it both informative and "user friendly." We believe that most of your inquires can be answered if you take the time to check the table of contents.

We are happy and eager to help you in any way which will further your desire to acquire and wear a pince-nez. We believe that most of your inquires can be answered if you take the time to check the table of contents. The detailed information on this blog is unavailable anywhere else.

One of the main purposes of the Pince-Nez Renaissance is to dispel the many myths and erroneous information which exists. This incorrect information is glaringly evident elsewhere on the web. Modern opticians have very little or no knowledge about this beautiful type of eyewear.

The Pince-Nez Renaissance welcomes and encourages your to send us your story for publication regarding your quest for this perfect type of solution to visual correction. Your photos wearing a pince-nez are also welcome.

Again, any of your questions concerning pince-nez not previously covered will be happily addressed by email or a future post. The Pince-Nez Renaissance exists to help you.

A Word on Security Devices

2010-01-10T04:10:00.000-08:00

The picture is one reason why many people link pince-nez with a security cord. In this great portrait of Theodore Roosevelt, his hoop spring is attached to a security cord secured on his jacket. Back in his day, one fall of the pince-nez and the fragile glass lenses were almost guaranteed to shatter. LeDandy admits that even his well-fitted hoop springs have fallen off his face on very few occasions.* Hence there was a practical reason to wear a security device a hundred years ago.

Shown below are three common types of security devices: the hairpin, the ear loop and the retractable cord (by Ketcham-McDougall). I do not have a chain attached to the ear loop but one would be present if worn.

The Ketcham-McDougall retractable cord is a beautiful and highly functional item even after a hundred years. As I've said in previous posts, the craftsmanship and materials of the old days are generally far superior to anything found today. The case is about the size of a quarter and the cord can be locked in place.

The ear loop was addressed in a previous post.

Thanks to modern plastic lenses, there is no longer a need for a security cord. Plastic lenses can survive almost any fall. Security devices make wonderful collectibles and they have their place in the theater for historical plays. However, LeDandy believes that one would look quite silly wearing a cord these days with pince-nez.
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*LeDandy's fingerpiece has never fallen off his nose and he wears this style regularly, alternating with hoop springs.

2009: Year in Review

2009-12-31T17:37:00.000-08:00

2009 was a great year for the Renaissance and pince-nez in general. There haven't been many posts this calendar year as back on the February 25th post LeDandy announced "mission accomplished." Unlike President Bush and the Iraq conflict, LeDandy really did mean the mission was accomplished in terms of the Renaissance's primary objective: assisting those who want to wear pince-nez. I realize the blog format is not best suited for presenting information so there is an annotated table of contents at left to guide the newcomer. Judging by readers' comments, this approach seems to work.

My colleague, Mr. Richard Johnson, was recognized on my other blog (LeDandy of Northern California) as the 2009 Man of the Year. Without him, this blog would not be possible. Furthermore, I would not be wearing pince-nez!

The Renaissance provides the necessary guidance for those wanting to embark on wearing pince-nez. Antique mountings are easily available through eBay at a modest cost and perfectly suited for modern wear. It may take some time to find an optician to make lenses, but one can usually find someone in a relatively short time. It is important to remember some of the tips contained herein as opticians usually have no practical knowledge of pince-nez.

The hard part is one's desire to wear these wonderful eyeglasses. The smorgasbord of pince-nez is waiting for you. All you have to do is step forward and take part in it. One needs to think of pince-nez as modern eyewear and not just an accessory for theater or historical re-enactments. In LeDandy's opinion, the rimless pince-nez is a timeless look and always appropriate. How can it fail as it is a minimalist approach?

If you want to wear pince-nez, give it a try. If this blog has helped you, contribute back to the community by submitting your own story for publication. Happy 2010!

An Overlooked Item: The Pince-Nez Case

2009-12-13T08:59:00.000-08:00

You have your pince-nez. It was tough to find the right fit with mountings but you finally have the perfect one. Then it took some time to find an optician to make your lenses. At last, a pince-nez that you truly love. Then one day you forgot where you put it down. The next thing you hear is a sickening crunch. So much for your wonderful pince-nez.

The situation described above hasn't happened to me but I'm sure it has happened to others. Protect your investment with a suitable case.

The good news is that pince-nez cases are relatively common and available on eBay and other places. In fact, many pince-nez are sold with a case. The important factor with the case is the size. It is much better to have a snug fit with your eyeglasses so they don't bounce around in it. The case below is perfectly sized for pince-nez.

Of course you can buy a normal sized eyeglass case if you keep your pince-nez in a stationary position. If carrying your case, you can always wrap your glasses in a cleaning cloth to prevent internal movement. Many beautiful eyeglass cases are available on eBay at a great price. The one pictured below has a starting bid of $10.

A brief note on cords, chains and earloops. These accessories must be kept apart from the eyeglasses while in the case. Otherwise, the cords and chains will get entangled with the mounting and knots will develop. A small piece of cardboard separating the chain or cord on the bottom of the case from they eyeglasses should remedy this situation.

New Feature: Discussion Threads!

2009-12-12T15:01:00.000-08:00

The Renaissance is pleased to announce the start of a new feature on this site: a pince-nez discussion section. Any readers interested in starting a discussion can submit a topic / question to LeDandy. The topics will be posted in new blog entries. Readers and the moderators (Mr. Johnson and I) can post replies in the comment section of the blog post.

Please do not address me as "Mr. LeDandy" in your email. I haven't been blogging on fashion subjects for five years to be called "Mr." It is Dr. LeDandy! :)

The Renaissance's Mr. Richard Johnson Wins Award!

2009-11-21T02:21:00.000-08:00

My learned colleague of this blog, Mr. Richard Johnson, has won the 2009 Man of the Year Award from the world renowned fashion authority, LeDandy (of Northern California). Mr. Johnson is the "brain" behind the Renaissance and he is the premier expert on pince-nez. Congratulations Mr. Johnson! An award well deserved.

Too Young for Pince-Nez?

2009-10-10T07:36:00.000-07:00

Perhaps, but it is a nice opportunity to see a photo of reader Nick's growing son. You may recall a June 30th post showing a younger lad. Thanks Nick for the update and beautiful photo.

Cases for Pince-Nez

2009-10-08T17:41:00.000-07:00

[Nick from the UK has kindly submitted the following article, along with photos. Readers are encouraged to send in articles about pince-nez for publication.]

The best way to carry pince nez is in a purpose made case. Modern cases are far too large, even child size ones which are sometimes even bigger. A case is needed to prevent scratching the lenses or snapping the mounting (that was the sad fate of my first pince nez). Cases can be found in antique stores and luckily fingerpiece and hoopspring cases seem to be fairly common.

I came across a case when I was looking for a new one which also had a pair of pince nez which fit better than the ones I had been using (I had been using an antique case for a child's glasses which was small, but still much bigger than my pince nez). Unfortunately, the spring in the lid was broken. I bought the case anyway and made a quick repair which has worked very well. All that is needed is a bit of super glue, a piece of 1/4" elastic, and a sew-on snap. The elastic must be not quite long enough to completely go around the case. Put a small dot of superglue in the centre of the case bottom and attach the eleastic, then sew on the snap to each end. This keeps the lid closed and is easy to open.

Great Reasons for Wearing Pince-Nez

2009-09-10T13:43:00.000-07:00

[Reader article submitted by David in Virginia. Thank you for your wonderful post.]

The express purpose of the Pince-Nez Renaissance is to promote the wearing of pince-nez in today's world as a viable alternative to spectacles. Please keep in mind that there are several objective reasons for someone to wear pince-nez, provided that he/she likes the look of the eyewear.

Appearance: The timeless, minimalistic simplicity of a rimless pince-nez enhances the face rather than hiding it in the manner of most modern eyewear. It is truly jewelry for the nose! A rimmed pince-nez can also offer similar features.

Comfort and Security: While it has often been stated that a proper pince-nez fit can be a period of trial and error which can lead to frustration, a successful fit results in a pince-nez which is extremely comfortable and amazingly secure at all times. Unlike most modern spectacles, there is no annoying problem with slipping, tilting or sliding down the nose etc. One is unaware that there's anything attached to the face if a pince-nez is a perfect fit.

Also added to the comfort feature of a rimless pince-nez is the fact there is no frame to obstruct one's vision even to the slightest degree, and with modern lenses the pince-nez is weightless!

Individualism: To wear a pince-nez one has to have an inborn desire to be a distinct individual rather than one who follows the dictates of the masses or mass media hype. If you are bold enough to stand out in your own unique way, a pince-nez is the perfect eyewear for you and your beautiful, perfect pince-nez may make you a trend setter in your own small way.

Mr. Baker's Hoop Springs

2009-08-17T08:39:00.000-07:00

I recently acquired the autograph of this gentleman, Newton D. Baker, on eBay. He was Woodrow Wilson's Secretary of War during World War I. See my post on LeDandy for the whole story. I love his hoop springs!

Another Review of Debby Burk's New Pince-Nez Readers

2009-07-20T09:39:00.000-07:00

[My learned colleague wrote his own review of Burk's new readers which was discussed on our last post.]

The new rimless hoopspring pince-nez readers are, like the earlier version, an excellent inexpensive "modern" pince-nez.

There are several design improvements: small, oval lenses sitting lower in the "straps" and a bridge spring which attaches via screws to the mounting along with the nose guards. This pince-nez is basically an exact copy of the classic antique rimless hoop spring circa 1900 version.

The simple yet elegant minimalistic look enhances the face rather than detracting from it the way most modern eye-wear does.

The mounting is constructed of inexpensive gold colored metal.This negative aspect has a positive side effect. Like Burk's earlier version, this pince-nez has absolutely amazing flexibility which results in an ease of adjustment to fit the individuals nose bridge with total comfort and security. The silicone nose pads which are provided should be applied to the nose guards for added comfort and they give a very secure attachment of the pince-nez to nose bridge. Properly fit and adjusted this pince-nez will not pose and stability problems even during extreme physical activity.

Another wonderful feature is that this pince-nez could be re-lensed should the buyer wish to wear it full time.

Since there is no other modern pince-nez which "works," this is the only choice for those who don't wish to purchase an antique version.

The $30.00 price tag is an amazing bargain.

The New Debby Burk Pince-Nez Readers

2009-07-12T09:22:00.003-07:00

I received the new hoop spring pince-nez reader from Debby Burk Optical last week. The price has gone up to $30 but I believe this price is a bargain for a now faithful reproduction of the classic hoop spring. Burk took our advice and made the new lenses smaller and they are now in more of an oval shape. Also, the mounting is constructed in an identical manner to the antique hoop springs in that the nose guard is detachable and secured by a screw to the main spring.

Burk also includes a pair of silicone nose pads. I find the pads greatly improve one's comfort and security while wearing pince-nez. You will probably want to use them but they are not required for short term wear.

This is the instruction sheet included with the set. I'm glad that they advise wearing the glasses on the upper part of the nose.

I tried to disassemble the nose guard. Unfortunately I have a cheap set of small screwdrivers so I gave up. I'm sure that one would be able to take it apart with a good set. Personally, I would not swap prescription lenses with this mounting. The material is nowhere near the quality of antique mountings. It is possible to swap lenses if one so desires. This is a personal choice.

Burk is to be applauded for the great improvements to these inexpensive readers. If you are considering pince-nez and have not previously worn this style, I strongly encourage you to get these readers. Also, these glasses do make an excellent reader and are quite attractive.

A New Life

2009-06-30T05:52:00.000-07:00

A loyal reader of the Renaissance, Nick from the UK, just sent in a picture of himself with his new baby boy. The Renaissance congratulates Nick on this wonderful occasion and wishes his family much health and happiness. Oh yes, the fingerpiece looks great on Nick.

Antique Pince-Nez Mountings vs. Contemporary Mountings

2009-06-28T04:00:00.000-07:00

We have received several emails from readers asking about current manufacturers of pince-nez mountings. The answer is that only cheap mountings are made today for readers and sunglasses. I would not recommend having prescription lenses made for any of them. While the Debby Burk hoop spring readers are quite functional, the mounting is crudely made and not worthy of prescription lenses.

The good news is that the antique mountings are often found in great condition and sometimes "new, old stock" pieces are available. * These antiques, in the proper condition, are perfectly functional and exceed the quality of anything which can be made today. Today's technology is impressive but the real craftsmanship, unfortunately, belongs in the past. Personally, I'd rather have something made in the distant past if technology is not an issue.

Lets be realistic. Pince-nez will most likely not become a mainstream style of eyewear. Businesses run on profit and the costs of making quality mountings on a small scale are prohibitive. Most opticians prefer the ease and high profit margin of modern eyewear. Very few are craftsmen who enjoy the history and challenge of making antique eyewear functional for the customer.

As you may have read on my other blog LeDandy, I prefer the craftsmanship and material of vintage Bragano shoes which I find on eBay. Somehow the work of today cannot compete with the items of yesteryear. This is not just my opinion but that of professionals in the shoe world. Another worthwhile area of savings and quality can be found in furniture.

But I digress. You should have no qualms about purchasing antique mountings in suitable condition. Lets be grateful these gems from the past are still here. Below are some close up photos of a fingerpiece from one of my fitting sets. Older is better.

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*eBay is still the best available route for purchasing antique pince-nez, while one may have luck at flea markets as well. See post.

Pince-Nez Poetry

2009-06-21T18:43:00.000-07:00

Yes, you read the title correctly. Poetry. A kind reader in Russia by the name of Max submitted this poem to the Renaissance. Max has a gift with words for a language other than his native tongue. Thank you Max for the poem.

A pince-nez or spectacles? What might be better?
For many of people this point doesn’t matter!
But certainly others have to make a choice
For which of these subjects to give their voice.

In order to help to arrive at decision
I’d share with all people my own vision:
Choose one and the other! And do not think twice!
Then any eyewear is useful device!

It seems I’ve already talked here. But while
I’m good-eyesight man who’s been masking his smile.

An Optician in Chicago for Pince-Nez

2009-06-13T06:33:00.000-07:00

The other day the Renaissance received an email from an optician in Chicago who enjoys working with pince-nez and other vintage frames. If you are in the Chicago area, you will definitely want to check out Labrabbit Optics for relensing your pince-nez. On his blog's webpage, he has a photo of a rimmed hoop spring which he recently completed.

If you have searched for an optical shop to make lenses for pince-nez, you understand that many are reluctant or downright refuse to work with this style. Others seem to do it grudgingly and provide little in the way of customer service. It takes a true craftsman (or is it craftsperson) with a love for the trade to properly fit a customer with pince-nez.

I haven't used Labrabbit Optics so I can't speak from personal experience. If you do use their services, please leave a comment here so others may benefit.

How Much is My Pince-Nez Worth?

2009-06-11T08:21:00.000-07:00

We receive this kind of question in various forms. One would assume that since this eyewear usually qualifies as an antique, there is considerable value for these glasses. Unfortunately, this is not the case. We are not antique experts but the majority of pince-nez sell on eBay for under $50. Gold mountings, usually 10k or 14k, sell in the $100 range or less on eBay if they are in good condition. Pince-nez marked 1/12k are gold-filled and have no gold value. You may have seen pince-nez listed in antique stores for a considerably higher price. This is most likely due to a higher profit margin for the stores.

One possibility for a rare, valuable pince-nez would be if the glasses were worn by a famous person at one time. Naturally this is difficult claim to prove and it must be supported by photos and/or other documentation showing provenance. To be truly valuable, the eyeglasses need to have been worn by the person and not merely an item in his/her collection.

Antique pince-nez may not have much of a monetary value. Nevertheless, please keep in mind that most of these eyeglasses were made with a precision, materials and workmanship which cannot be duplicated today. For purposes of actual usage, an antique mounting is highly desirable.

The Renaissance is not a collector's website. We focus on assisting those who want to wear pince-nez. If you have an interest in the history of pince-nez, I strongly suggest you look at Antique Spectacles as they are experts in the field. If you want to wear the glasses, then you found the right place here at the Renaissance!

This is general advice only. Before selling your pince-nez, you should consult several sources so you know the true market value of the item. If you believe your pince-nez was worn by a famous person and you have proof of this claim, then you should contact a major auction house such as Sotheby's or Christie's.

A Big No-No for Pince-Nez Wear

2009-06-03T21:09:00.000-07:00

Pince-nez should never, never be worn far down on the nose as pictured here. For some reason, many people believe that pince-nez should be worn in this position. I've seen it on ads for cheap, modern readers as well as ads on eBay by sellers who have no idea about this eyewear. It is impractical to wear them this way and it looks pretentious. You don't want the glasses to restrict your breathing!

If you insist on wearing eyeglasses that rest on the tip of your nose, switch to spectacles.

Nick's Story

2009-05-27T03:48:00.000-07:00

This is the second of two responses to our call for readers' stories. Nick from the UK was kind enough to send in his story.

I imagine some people may be interested in wearing pince nez, but are nervous about sticking out. When sitting side by side with a pair of modern glasses, they are certainly different. Even when worn, the lack of temples and whatever mechanism grips the bridge of the nose set pince nez apart from spectacles. But how noticeable are they really? After several years of wearing pince nez for sunglasses and for reading, I’ve started to wonder.

When I first started wearing pince nez, I only had sunglasses, since I didn’t need them for my eyesight. I spent some time talking to a friend outdoors one day, and had them on due to the glare from the snow. She saw me again a couple days later (I was wearing them again), and asked, ‘Your glasses don’t have temples, do they?’ She hadn’t noticed the first time. Now, a few years later, I need reading glasses, and have a fingerpiece pince nez. I had been wearing them for a few weeks, when in one class I took them off. The person sitting next to me, who I often sat by, noticed that my glasses were ‘missing bits!’ And as a last example, I spent over an hour talking with my advisor about a proposal I was writing, wearing them all the while. She didn’t mention anything about them, but a couple weeks later, I talked with her again. I took them off and set them down on my notebook, and she suddenly noticed the lack of temples.

Of course, sometimes people notice right away, and they will almost invariably be interested in how they stay on. They may even ask if they can try them on. Chalk up another advantage for pince nez, they’re an excellent conversation starter!

Tadd's Story

2009-05-27T01:25:00.000-07:00

The Renaissance's call for participation was answered by two brave souls. Presented below is the first entry. Tadd presented his story and he was kind enough to send a photo. He writes as follows:

I recently turned thirty-two years old and I've been wearing a 14K gold hoopspring pince-nez for ten years. I've had the lenses changed once so far. I plan on wearing a pince-nez for the remainder of my day and I'll never go back to regular spectacles again!

I suppose I was drawn to pince-nez because of my love of history. I used to see old photos in books and I loved the look of pince-nez. After high school I started scouting antique stores for pince-nez and began collecting them as a small hobby. I prefer to buy antique pince-nez in person so you can try them on and make sure they fit before you buy. It wasn't until 1999 that I finally took a gold hoopspring and had the lenses changed out with new ones for my prescription.

I've always received positive compliments on my pince-nez, some people don't even notice them - most do though! I find pince-nez to be very comfortable. I use no additional padding and I can't even feel them on my nose when I wear them. I can do most anything while I'm wearing them and I do wear them all the time. I'm terribly glad I made the decision to start wearing a pince-nez and I've never looked back.

Thanks Tadd for your wonderful story and photo.

Is the Renaissance a Community Blog?

2009-05-21T09:03:00.000-07:00

It is up to you.

The mission of this blog is to assist people who want to wear pince-nez eyeglasses by providing the necessary information and advice. It has succeeded far beyond my expectations. Yes, we are a highly specialized interest group and I didn't expect many hits on this site. I was wrong. There are many people interested in pince-nez around the world.

My learned friend and I who run this website intended to make the Renaissance a community blog and not focus entirely on the two of us. To that extent we have asked for readers to submit their own stories related to pince-nez. We have not received one story for posting to date. Pictures alone are not enough. We need to share our stories with each other as it helps in so many ways. You can email me at the address in the left hand column.

The Renaissance will continue with its mission which is going so well. However, it would be improper to present the Renaissance as a community blog if there is no input from our readers. In life there are many things which are beyond your control. This is not one of them.

Another Review of Debby Burk's Pince-Nez Readers

2009-04-25T01:25:00.000-07:00

[My learned colleague drafted his own review of Burk's readers as shown on our last post. While my colleague and I agree on most key points, there are some differences in our opinions. We disagree on the issue of re-lensing the mounting. Below is his review.]

Copied from the classic design of the 1890-1920 era, this new, very attractive and extremely well designed rimless hoop spring pince-nez is to be praised because of its great flexibility and the truly amazing ease in adjusting it to fit almost any width nose bridge as long as it has some prominence. This is a quality that the antique hoop spring pince-nez did not possess. I do feel that the silicone nose pads should be used with this pince-nez and applied with the wider end on the top of the nose guard.

While the overall quality of this mounting doesn't come close to that of the antique gold, gold-filled or silver mountings, it certainly matches or exceeds the workmanship of the bulk of modern eye wear at a fraction of the price.

I would suggest that purchasing this pince-nez is a great idea for those who just need "readers". Perfect too for those who want a spare or those who successfully wear a fingerpiece but are curious about wearing a hoop spring. It is the ideal solution for people who wish to try wearing a pince-nez for the first time, to have the experience of its great comfort and security of it on the bridge of the nose. For those who are averse to wear a used pince-nez available on eBAY or from antique shops, this new item is just the thing. The bargain price makes it irresistible!

It should not be a problem to re-lens this new pince-nez if you have a minus or astigmatism Rx. The problem lies in finding an optician who will deal with a product they don't sell.

In short, this is THE ONLY pince-nez being manufactured today which is well designed. All others appear to have major flaws and are extremely expensive and just plain don't work.

Review: Modern Pince-Nez Readers

2009-04-19T06:33:00.000-07:00

Earlier in the week I received a pince-nez reader from Debby Burk Optical. My colleague and I have been looking forward to reviewing these readers as the lenses are set on a modern mounting. With a purchase price listed at $24.95, we did not expect much beyond the cheap drugstore reading glasses. Without giving away the whole review, I will say that we were very pleasantly surprised.

The glasses arrived with a soft leather carrying case and a simple cutout with instructions for adjustment of the bridge.

Mounting:
This is a classic, hoop spring style mounting. I was amazed at its remarkable similarity in construction to my antique hoop springs that I wear daily. For the price, I expected a one piece unit for the bridge, nose guards and lens straps. Just like the antique hoop springs, Burk's readers use a a screw to attach the separate nose guards and lens straps to the bridge. See the Renaissance post on antique hoop springs to compare the similarity in design.

Another nice feature is the screw attachment for the lens to the lens strap. A nice touch! I expected the cheap rivets used in the old drugstore, pince-nez sunglasses.

You'll note the nose guards have a smooth finish. At first I thought the nose guards were the old style "sanitary" (i.e., all metal) pads. I was wrong. There is a lacquer finish to them which helps the grip on the nose.

The mounting itself is crude when compared to the quality of antique hoop springs. However this does not interfere with its function and should not present a problem to the wearer. For the price, the mounting is very well made and impressive.

The wonderful modern aspect of this mounting is its incredible flexibility. I have always been skeptical of "one size fits all" claims. Burk's readers do live up to this statement as the spring steel mounting will adapt to a wide variety of nose bridge widths. When I received the readers, the bridge was very wide. The instructions tell the wearer to narrow the bridge mounting by bringing the lenses together so they overlap each other. It works. An antique bridge would never hold up to this kind of treatment.

Lenses:
The plastic lenses (C-39) are typical of the quality of lenses for inexpensive readers and more than adequate for its intended purpose. Since I do not use readers (yet!), I can't speak to the accuracy of the lens but I have no reason to doubt their claimed strength. I chose the lowest strength lens for my sample.

Burk's readers use a roundish lens which is better suited in size for conventional specs. Each lens measures roughly one and three quarters inches wide and one and a half inches tall. The classic dimensions for an oval pince-nez lens is about a one quarter inch less in height and width. A large lens is a common mistake for eye professionals when dealing with pince-nez. The smaller, classic lenses looks much better and is more stable for wear (lenses pictured below). Nevertheless, the supplied lenses should work fine as a reader.

Fit:
Since the mounting is so flexible, a great fit is assured if you have a suitably prominent nose bridge for pince-nez wear. The simple instructions provided with the readers allows even the clumsiest wearer to properly adjust the bridge. By crossing the lenses together a few times, I had a perfect fit.

Now on to the nose guards. Compared to antique nose guards, they are more comfortable and secure thanks to the lacquer coating. A wearer should have no problem with slippage or comfort for short periods of time.

The addition of silicone nose pads help immensely for longer term wear and enhanced comfort. I put on a pair of my QTE nose pads and I was very impressed with the fit of these readers. The combination of silicone nose pads and the adjustable mounting provide the perfect fit.

Recommendation:
The Renaissance endorses Burk's pince-nez as an excellent, inexpensive reader for the house. Due to the large, disproportionate size of the lenses, these glasses would not look good in public for most people.

Also, we strongly encourage anyone interested in wearing pince-nez to purchase these readers in order to get a "feel" for a pince-nez with proper fit. If you've had no experience wearing pince-nez, this is an essential step before you invest in getting a set of prescription lenses made for your future mounting. Don't be cocky, it is not that easy to gauge a good fit with pince-nez if you have never worn them.

I would not have prescription lenses made for this mounting.

My first antique mounting proved to be too tight after extended wear. This situation could have been avoided if I experienced the proper fit of a pince-nez via these readers. It is $25 well spent, considering lenses will probably cost you more than $200.

Buying Tips Revisited

2009-03-28T07:59:00.000-07:00

This blog gets many questions from readers regarding leads on buying pince-nez. Thank you for your questions! I only wish that is was easier to buy pince-nez for the determined wearer. As always, if you happen to discover a good source for this eyewear, whether it be an online seller or brick & mortar vintage eyeglass store, please leave a comment or write to us so we may share this info with other readers. It also helps a good business stay in business.

One question which comes up frequently is a request for a current manufacturer of pince-nez mountings. To our knowledge, we do not know of a current maker of quality pince-nez mountings. The good news is that the antique mountings are probably better than anything which could be made today.

What about sellers? Is it really necessary to have an unconditional return policy of at least seven days as advocated in prior posts? It depends. If the purchase price is very low (i.e., under $20 or so) you may want to take a chance on fit. If it doesn't fit, you can always resell it if the item is in good condition. However, if you are spending more and want to ensure a good fit and quality item, it is recommended that you have at least seven days to determine if the mounting is right for you. Pince-nez fit much differently than conventional eyewear with temples.

LeDandy purchased the hoop spring pictured above as part of a fitting set late last year on eBay. As you can see from my photo, it is garbage. However, the seller's photo of the entire set was far more flattering. I'm glad that I ensured there was an unconditional return policy before purchasing the set.

The other point about sellers worth mentioning is seller communication. It is critical that the seller respond to your inquiries. Remember, you are the customer. You deserve to be treated in a polite and professional manner. If communication is lacking from the seller, this is a warning signal. If you have any questions at all regarding an item, ask them. You have the right to ask questions and receive a polite, prompt and accurate answer.

Finding the Right Optician To Make Your Lenses

2009-03-20T08:50:00.000-07:00

If you want to wear pince-nez, they should be on your face and not sitting in a drawer as pictured here. Once you find a suitable mounting, you still need to have lenses made for it.

The Renaissance receives many questions from readers asking about referrals to opticians who specialize in pince-nez so that they can have lenses made. To our knowledge, we do not know of any optical store which has expertise with pince-nez. This is not surprising since this style of eyewear left the mainstream optical arena in the 1930's. Sadly, we also no longer have experts who are trained in pince-nez fitting as these men would be over a hundred years old now.

Now for the good news. You do not need an optician with expertise in this eyewear to make your lenses. Any competent and motivated optician can do it.

Finding a competent and motivated optician, while seemingly very easy to do, can actually be a challenge for the pince-nez enthusiast in the real world. Competency is not usually a major concern. It is easy to determine if an optical store does good work by reading online reviews and listening to referrals from friends. The hard part is finding someone who is motivated to work with pince-nez. I was shocked by the difficulty in finding an optician to make lenses for my pince-nez here in San Francisco.

Why do I stress an optician's motivation? Because your purchase extends beyond the manufacture and mounting of lenses on your eyeglasses. You will also need fitting adjustments made to your mounting. I learned this lesson the hard way after having my first set of lenses made by a boutique optician (Eyegotcha) in the Castro. After the sale, they did not make a good faith attempt to work with me on adjustments to my fingerpiece. Unless you feel totally confident in your abilities, I suggest leaving fitting adjustments to a professional.

I strongly urge you to do some investigative work in finding an optician to make your lenses. It is an investment which will pay off in having a wearable pince-nez. Otherwise, at best your eyeglasses will sit in a drawer awaiting a new set of lenses. In the worst case, an incompetent optician can ruin your pince-nez.

Exercise your due diligence in finding an optician. Read reviews and get referrals from friends. Then you can make phone calls to see if they will work with pince-nez. Of those who do, I suggest visiting the store and interviewing the optician or staff to see if they will accommodate your needs. For those of you who will not do your own adjustments, ask if they will work with you on fitting after the sale. Here you will need to use your intuition as well.

My learned friend put together a list of practices for opticians to use when working with pince-nez. It is an excellent guide to take with you. For convenience, you can read it here as an Adobe pdf file.

Pince-Nez Oddities

2009-03-08T17:28:00.000-07:00

This is a fun topic. I recently received notice that Antique Spectacles has posted photos of a large assortment of pince-nez oddities. Yes, there are some very unusual and interesting configurations of pince-nez in this group. There is one flexible guard style on the first page which has lenses resembling cooked eggs (i.e.,yellow center, white periphery). Words alone cannot do justice to these images.

There are about seventy images appearing on two web pages. Please check out this amazing collection on AntiqueSpectacles.com. The pages are entitled "Not Your Average Pince-Nez."

Market Value of a Pince-Nez Fitting Set

2009-03-04T17:57:00.000-08:00

The other day an auction ended on eBay for an American Optical fitting set. It was a well-worded ad and this auction received fifteen bids from six bidders for the twelve piece set. While the mountings appeared to be in very good condition, the case and insert had some condition issues. Nevertheless, fitting sets appear only once every few months or so on eBay. The winning bid for this set was $177.50.

As a collectible, the fitting set does not appear to generate much collector interest in terms of monetary value.

The winning bidder did manage a good deal as the fingerpieces alone were well worth the final price, averaging $14.79 per mounting. If you peruse the eBay listings, final prices for fingerpieces usually range from $15 to $30 for mountings in very good condition or better.

In terms of historical value, the fitting set is a priceless item for the pince-nez enthusiast. It harks back to a time when the optical patient received individual attention from a trained optician.

Collectibles are subject to the old law of supply and demand in relation to price. While the fitting sets are very scarce, there does not seem to be a big money demand for them. I think that is great! It allows pince-nez enthusiasts to acquire them at a reasonable price. If you are a true collector, the monetary value shouldn't be a consideration. It is a historical item which needs to be preserved.

If you are a lover of pince-nez, I hope you can acquire one of these sets. You'll be glad you did.

Mission Accomplished (but still more to do)

2009-02-25T16:36:00.000-08:00

Yes, I think of this day as graduation day for the Renaissance. I've been reviewing the content of this site and came to the realization that the basics concerning pince-nez have been satisfactorily covered.

What do I mean by "basics?" For all of my adult life I have wanted to wear pince-nez. No one ever took me seriously. I'd get a chuckle perhaps at an optical store, but no one ever cared. Then along came the internet and all of a sudden I met several like-minded individuals. I received an email one day from a gentleman who has been wearing pince-nez for most of his life. Not only did he inspire me, but he gave me the essential information which enabled me to wear this eyewear. This vital information is what I refer to as the basics.

My learned friend modestly claims that he is no expert. I disagree. His knowledge has been so critical that I am certain I would not be wearing pince-nez if it were not for him. The deceptively simple piece of eyewear is much more complicated than ordinary spectacles. I now believe that this blog has touched on the major issues and concerns which will confront a prospective wearer.

So where will the Renaissance go now? There is only one place to go after graduation: advanced studies! Look for articles addressing pince-nez history in more depth, among other topics.

We are looking for pince-nez enthusiasts to write articles and contribute their stories. Please email LeDandy if you'd like to help our community. Of course we can always touch on the basic issues (e.g., fit, places to buy pince-nez) as needed. Questions are always welcome.

It is likely that the frequency of posts will be less than in the past. Advanced studies involve more time. I highly recommend using Google Reader or similar application so you will be advised of updates. It is a great way to keep track of blogs at one time so you don't have to manually check for updates. Of course you'll also want to keep abreast of LeDandy (of Northern California).

Pince-Nez Potpourri

2009-02-15T08:37:00.000-08:00

A nice sounding phrase? Well, this is one of those weekends where I have a few important yet unrelated posts.

AntiqueSpectacles.com - This is the finest source on the internet for the history of eyewear. They have a pince-nez page and recently added the Renaissance as a link. Many thanks to Dr. Fleishman at AntiqueSpectacles.
Hybrid Pince-Nez - This particular mounting sold recently on eBay for $11. It is a hybrid hoop spring / fingerpiece! It was popular from about 1902 - 1912. The tension is the bridge, even though it looks like a fingerpiece. If anyone has more information on this style, please comment.
Mounting or Frame? - A learned reader raised a good point concerning pince-nez terminology. He said that a rimless pince-nez should be called a mounting whereas eyeglasses with rims should be called a frame. It makes sense!

Another One of LeDandy's Wedding Photos

2009-02-12T07:03:00.000-08:00

Yes, LeDandy has put up a few photos of himself on this blog. I considered whether or not I should add another one. I ran across this pic from my wedding which I didn't put up in my wedding post of a month ago. This pic really highlights my hoop springs and I thought it would be a nice addition to the photo gallery. Plus we paid a nice sum of money to the photographer so I might as well use everything from that day. God, I love my hoops!

Pince-Nez in the Movies

2009-02-08T07:17:00.000-08:00

Last year I wrote a post about a pince-nez sighting on a (relatively) old episode of Mission Impossible from 1968. In that episode, an Eastern bloc head of state wore a fingerpiece. Since that time, I've been paying attention to pince-nez appearances on tv and in the movies.

Nick, a loyal reader of the Renaissance, sent in some information on this topic:

"Some movies I've recently noted, are "Meet John Doe," the classic Capra movie, in which the character of D.B. Norton wears an interesting pince nez, and throughout the movie continuously sticks the lenses in is mouth to fog them before cleaning them. In the 1918 Tarzan, the first Tarzan movie, the captain wears pince nez with the ribbon hung over his ear, something seen in photos occasionally, but even takes them off and lets them hang from the ear at one point. And in the 1953 compilation of the '30s Buck Rodgers serial, we see that pince nez will still be worn in the 26th century! These are only a few, of course."

The photo above is taken from "Meet John Doe," which can be found at Archive.org along with the other movies mentioned by Nick. The Renaissance thanks Nick for his interesting input.

Any Reactions to Your Pince-Nez?

2009-02-07T07:42:00.000-08:00

I've written quite a bit on this site about my own experiences. I've received a number of compliments on both styles of pince-nez but for the most part people do not comment on my choice of eyewear. I'm sure this is partly due to a sense of politeness. However I really do believe that most people simply don't notice them. I work in San Francisco and I'm sure it is probably the most liberal city in the country. Liberal not just in politics but also culture. It is typical to see nose rings, piercings and purple hair on the street. Do you think anyone will care about pince-nez in SF?

So I ask you pince-nez enthusiasts, what reactions have you encountered in public while wearing your pince-nez? This is an important subject as I'm sure many readers are a tad reluctant to wear pince-nez on a full time basis. I can tell you that if you live in the SF Bay Area, it won't be a problem! Please remember to specify your location.

I look forward to reading your responses.

Judgment from Nuremburg, Part II

2009-01-31T18:08:00.000-08:00

The Renaissance recently connected with Dr. David Fleishman of AntiqueSpectacles.com. If you have not seen this website, I strongly encourage you to check it out. There is a great deal of history and information on eyewear, including a nice section on pince-nez. The site is remarkable for its imagery and scope. As pince-nez enthusiasts, it is important to have a basic knowledge of eyewear history. AntiqueSpectacles.com makes the process informative and fun. I especially like the section entitled Eyeglasses Through the Ages, a great primer on history.

The need for understanding eyewear history was clearly demonstrated back about a month ago in a post when I failed to identify a set of Nuremburg spectacles on eBay (shown below). The seller mistakenly labeled these eyeglasses as pince-nez from the early 20th century. In fact these glasses date to about 1720 and are a remarkable specimen (a "facett glaser" according to an expert collector). Pince-nez did not come into existence until about 1840 in France.

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Dr. Fleishman provided some interesting information on Nuremburg spectacles. The name refers to the first mass produced eyeglasses with origins in the very late 15th century. These eyeglasses were made in German cities centered mostly around Nuremburg, but including also Regensburg and Furth. Nice examples are indeed rare and are desired by knowledgeable collectors, since it is estimated that only about four hundred survive to this day. Of those only about one in ten has a maker's name along the edge, making them particularly scarce. Few examples currently exist in American collections.

In another post of a month ago I also referenced the Nuremburg spectacles shown below from a 2007 Christie's auction which sold for $1,660. I described these eyeglasses as shoddy. Once again, LeDandy was incorrect. This set had the maker's name, Georg Jacob Bauer, along the edge of the copper wire. Therefore, these spectacles are very rare and clearly worth the auction price.

At least one fact came out of this experience. LeDandy was clearly not meant to be an antique appraiser! The Renaissance thanks Dr. Fleishman for his information on Nuremburg spectacles.

More On Pince-Nez Fit and Measurement

2009-01-29T09:21:00.000-08:00

On my January 17, 2009 post I wrote about a fitting set which I bought on eBay. Fitting sets were used to determine the proper size of a particular style on a customer. The sets usually contained a dozen pince-nez and there was an accompanying chart describing the various measurements of each mounting using three different positions. [click on it for close-up]

Here is a close-up discussing the different kinds of measurements. It is very interesting.

I wrote in previous posts that there is no method for properly measuring a pince-nez for fit. You must try on a pince-nez to determine a proper fit.

So you may be saying "LeDandy, you schmuck, a fitting set contains measurements so there is a way to measure pince-nez." The proof, obviously, is in the cardboard insert.

I still believe in my prior statement. There is no way to properly measure a pince-nez for fit. The key phrase is "for fit." Two major points stand out to me in regard to the cardboard insert for fitting sets.

First, the measurements on the insert apply to the one particular style of mounting in the set. Two fingerpieces, each with the same measurements from two different styles, will probably not fit in the same manner. It is roughly analogous to a pair of shoes. Shoes with the same measurements in length and width may not fit in the same way, or at all, if the styles are different. The same principle applies to pince-nez. In fact, pince-nez requires greater precision as there is less tolerance for an imperfect fit.

Secondly, the measurements taken for the fitting set do not include any listing of nose guard distances. The nose guards must be comfortable for a good fit. Otherwise, as I know from personal experience, you cannot wear them. It can even be painful.

You can measure distances at different positions between nose guards. Even if you go this route, you can still not be assured of a proper fit. There is not one predominant style of nose guard. Nose guards of different styles with the same measurements will probably feel different on your nose bridge. Also, you need to consider the spring tension as for fit.

There is only one known way to determine a proper fit. You must try them on. Fitting sets worked because all of the pince-nez were the same bridge style with the same type of nose guard and springs.

Understanding Our Heritage

2009-01-25T07:46:00.000-08:00

The primary purpose of this website is to promote the modern day wear of pince-nez. Unlike other websites which focus on pince-nez as a collectible, we show you how it is practical and desirable to wear them. Recently I've received questions from readers asking historical questions. We do have a basic history presented in many of the posts, courtesy of my friend who is well-versed in pince-nez. This information provides a solid overview and we also have many interesting pieces of trivia. Nevertheless, I intend on pursuing more knowledge for my own sake as well as the benefit of this column.

The internet is a wonderful way to gain knowledge on virtually all topics. The key word here is "virtually." Pince-nez, of course, is an exception to this rule. I'm sure you have googled this subject and have not found much in the way of practical information.

I found a good bibliography on AntiqueSpectacles.com which provides a good starting point for eyewear research. I expect many of the books listed on their site have a section for pince-nez as well as spectacles. I have not found a book devoted entirely to pince-nez. Yesterday I checked the availability of some of these books on Amazon. I found Eyewear: Gli Occhiali by Franca Acerenza, pictured, at left on Amazon for $2 (plus $4 shipping) and ordered it. The nice thing about Amazon is that they have reader reviews which can be quite helpful.

If you have you have read or have knowledge of any books or any sources of information on pince-nez, please post a comment. After all, we are here to help each other.

My New Fitting Set

2009-01-17T08:00:00.000-08:00

"The stuff that dreams are made of." I remember this quote from "The Maltese Falcon," one of my favorite films with Humphrey Bogart. If you asked me about my dreams when I was seventeen, I guarantee you my response would be very different! But now I'm settled down and appreciate the finer things in life. As you may recall, I bought a fitting set a few weeks ago on eBay. This set is in superb condition and has ten of the twelve original fingerpieces.

Are these sets rare? I'm not sure. I will say they are quite scarce and appear on eBay at times. I'm glad to have a nearly complete set and will definitely leave this set to a museum one day. It really is a trip back in time when the customer received individual attention from an optician. These days you stand in line at a big chain store and hope you run into a competent salesperson.

Were these fitting sets important? Anyone who has bought the fingerpiece style understands how difficult it can be to achieve the right fit with this style of pince-nez. A good fit is not as easy as it looks and can be very frustrating to the novice. In fact, I almost gave up at one point (glad I didn't!).

The cardboard insert is in exceptional condition and has virtually no toning from age. I believe this condition is mostly due to the felt insert in the case.

Here is the full view of the insert.

Here are close-ups of the text. It gives the reader an appreciation for the detail involved with achieving the proper fit for the customer. Note the significance of each digit in the model number.

Of course the real charm of the set lies in the pince-nez itself. This particular set has the sanitary nose guard style, that is an all metal nose guard. The pictures speak for themselves.